Spain La Rioja
La Rioja
In Area D.O. ca Rioja
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This is probably the most famous and best known DO wine-growing region in Spain, and it has some special geographic features. Although the majority of the vineyards, with a total area of 62.000 hectares, is located in the autonomous La Rioja region in north-east Spain, but parts of the DO are also located in the Basque region (the sub-zone Alavesa) and Navarra. The region has a very long tradition of viticulture. Numerous fermentation troughs hewn out of stone have been found, attesting to wine production in ancient times. The efforts to define the area of origin and to produce high quality likewise have a long tradition. As early as 1560, wine producers agreed on a common brand to be used to mark the barrels (and guarantee the identity of the contents) containing wines from this region. In 1635, the mayor of Logroño even banned carts and carriages from driving on roads that led past wineries, for fear the vibrations caused by the carts might damage the musts, and thus adversely affect the maturation of the wines in the cellars along the way. The first written document indicating quality controls and a guarantee of wine quality dates back to 1650. In Jahre 1787, the „Real Sociedad Económica de Cosecheros de Rioja“ (Rpyal economic association of Rioja wine producers) was founded with the objective of promoting viticulture, winemaking and the wine trade. The tradition of the Batalla del Vino (Battle of the wines) was established in the town of Haro in the early 19th century, this major town festival is still celebrated each year.
One of the pioneers of the Rioja region was the Marqués Camilo Hurtado de Amézaga, who created a winery in the Bordeaux style on his estate, which has a vineyard area of 200 hectares, in 1860, planting vines imported from Bordeaux. Following the phylloxera catastrophe in the mid-19th century, many wine producers from France emigrated and moved to the Rioja region, giving the wine industry here some French impulses. A royal edict was issued in 1902, defining the origin of Rioja wines, and stating rules for the labels. A control commission was founded in 1926, and charged with the task of defining the borders of the Rioja region, of protecting the name of Rioja, and of issuing the seal of guarantee for the region. The control commission fort he Rioja region of origin was founded in 1953, its duties include carrying out chemical analyses and tastings in order to decide whether the wines submitted comply with the strict regulations. A ministerial order in 1981 awarded the Rioja region the attribute „calificada“ (qualified), thus elevating it to the highest quality classification in Spain, the DOCa. The name of the DO as well as of the wine is derived from the Oja river (Rio Oja). The region is large, and stretches for more than a hundred kilometres along both banks of the Ebro river, also stretching up the surrounding hillsides. The climate is mild, with a short summer and a lovely autumn. Traditionally, vines have been grown as bush vines (En Vaso or Gobelet), but more recently training on wire frames has become more common. The most important grape variety in Rioja is Tempranillo, it covers around 28.000 hectares, or around 60% of the total vineyard area. The most widely planted white variety is Viura, with 8.000 hectares.
Around 75% of all Rioja wine is red, 15% is rosé and only 10% is white wine. 80% of red Rioja is made from the leading grape variety, Tempranillo, with shares of Garnacha Tinta (Grenache Noir), Graciano and Mazuelo (Carignan), as well as (permitted as of the 2007 vintage) Maturana Parda and Maturana Tinta. The tradition of adding some white varieties has fallen into disuse. In addition, experiments have been underway for some time with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, which may be used if a special permit is applied for. The red wines are practically all fermented dry. The rosé is also available in a semi-sweet version. White Rioja is made from Viura (Macabeo), MalvasÃa Riojana and Garnacha Blanca, as well as (permitted as of the 2007 vintage) Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc (together no more than 50%), Maturana Blanca, Tempranillo Blanco, Turruntés (Torrontés) and Verdejo. The wine has a yellow colour with greenish tinges, and is usually fermented dry. The grape varieties not indigenous to the Rioja region may not be stated on the label, whereas the classic indigenous varieties may be named. Annual production of Rioja wine is around 180 million litres, of which around a third is exported to 70 markets. The Rioja region is divided into three sub-zones:
Rioja Alta: This zone has a total vineyard area of 24.000 hectares, the main centre is Haro, the zone is located to the south of the Ebro river and to the west of the city of Logrono. The climate is influenced by the Atlantic ocean, with hot summers, mild autumns and cool winters. The vineyards are located on sedimented soils, mixed with clay, and with a high content of iron and limestone. The dominant grape variety is Tempranillo, followed by Mazuelo and Graciano, all of these have slightly thicker skins than in the other two sub-zones of Rioja, producing slightly more extract. The best Rioja wines, those with most finesse, are produced here. The wines are full-bodied with a high level of tannins and acidity, they are ideally suited for barrel maturation.
Rioja Alavesa: This zone has a total vineyard area of 12.000 hectares, and is located to the north of the Ebro river in the Basque region. The climate is similar to that of Rioja Alta, with predominantly limestone and clay soils. The key grape variety is Tempranillo, which as a slightly thinner skin here. The dominant style here is of light-bodied, spicy, fruity red wines with a medium acidity and medium alcohol content. They can be consumed as young wines, but are also suitable for barrel maturation. Generally speaking, their maturation potential is not as great as that of the wines from Rioja Alta.
Rioja Baja: This zone has a total vineyard area of 20.500 hectares, it is located to the east of Logrono, and is the warmest and driest of the zones. A Mediterranean climate dominates here, with lower rainfall. The vineyards are located mainly on clay soils with a high iron content and other sediments. The dominant grape variety is the red Garnacha. The zone produces red wines that are high in extract and alcohol, with an alcohol content of up to 15% vol, as well as rosé wines. The wines are aromatic, and approachable at an early stage, and generally not quite in the same class as the wines of the other Rioja sub-zones.
What used to be a general tradition, that of covering Rioja bottles in a mesh of gold-coloured wire, is only maintained today by a few producers (see unser Alambrado). The traditional method of producing the wines, which involves extended maturation in 225 litre barriques of American oak is still the dominant style. This method results in wines with an almost brownish colour, typical notes of vanilla, spice and lemon, as well as soft tannins. More recently, a shorter period in barrel followed by bottle maturation is being seen increasingly, the objective is to make the wines drinkable at an earlier stage. Generally speaking, the period of barrel maturation varies from one to three years , followed by a period of six months to six years in bottle, to complete the maturation. The wines are divided into four categories, depending on the ageing and maturation process. The maturation periods stated are minimum periods, many wineries still extend this period considerably:
Joven (young wine): The young Rioja (in white, red and rosé) bears only the designation „Garantia de Origen“ and is released for sale within months after the harvest. However, some examples have also been matured in oak for a short period. These wines should be drunk while they are young.
Crianza (matured): Red wines msut be matured for a minimum of two years, of which a minimum of one year must be in barrel, followed by up to twelve months in bottle. Six months in barrel is the minimum period for white and rosé wines. See also under Crianza.
Reserva: Red wines must be matured for a minimum of three years in total, including a minimum of one year in barrel. White wines in this category require six months in barrel and six months in bottle. Rosados (rosé wines) are not available as Reservas (and also not as Gran Reservas). See also under Reserva.
Gran Reserva: Red wines must be matured for a minimum of 24 months in barrel and a further 36 months in bottle. Some bodegas produce long-lived white wines, these must be matured for a minimum of 6 months in barrel and 42 months in bottle. See also under Reserva.
There are around 20.000 grape growers, of which 98% a produce only grapes, which are then delivered to large wineries. The more than 500 bodegas, or wineries, have an annual production of around 3 million hectolitres, of which 40% is exported. Well-known producers include Alicia Rojas, Barón de Ley, Berberana, BilbaÃnas, Bodegas Altanza, Bodegas Franco Españolas, Bretón Criadores, Campillo, Carlos Serres, Corrál, CVNE, Domecq Bodegas, El Coto de Rioja, Faustino, Finca Allende, La Rioja Alta, López de Heredia, Marqués de Cáceres, Marqués de Griñón, Marqués de Murrieta, Marqués de Riscal, Marqués de Vargas, MartÃnez Bujanda, Montecillo, Muga, Ontañón, Paternina, Primicia, Puelles, Ramón Bilbao, RemÃrez de Ganuza, Riojanas, Roda, Telmo RodrÃguez, Torre de Oña, Viña Salceda, Viñedos de Aldeanueva, Viñedos del Contino, Viñedos y Bodegas de La Marquesa, Winner Wines.
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