In a world characterised by an ever increasing number of ever more complicated brand names in the field of wine, it is essential to provide consumers with some form of orientation, and with a set of comprehensible values. A guarantee of controlled origin, a set and limited number of permitted varieties, and a set of production regulations determining quality and style were therefore introduced decades ago in countries such as France and Italy. In Austria, too, the discussion on this topic started some 15 years ago, but it was only in 2003 that the first visible result was achieved. Certainly a long time, which, however, also provided an opportunity to thoroughly evaluate the pros and cons of the various systems available.

Once there was basic agreement on the most suitable system to be introduced in Austria, nothing much happened initially. Practically all the wine-growing regions had some comments to contribute, some did not see any sense in such a system, there was a lack of agreement on grape varieties as well as on procedural matters – to put it in a nutshell, a whole second round of discussions took place. The Weinviertel region was one of the first to appreciate the opportunities, and was the pioneer in introducing the system in practical terms.

The wine-growing region

The Weinviertel

The Weinviertel wine-growing region lies to the north of the Danube River in the eastern part of Austria, the vineyard area totals around 16.000 hectares, of which half is planted with the Grüner Veltliner white grape variety. Because of the extent of the region, the soils are somewhat varied, mainly loess, clay, primary rock and black earth soils dominate the picture. The climate is continental and fairly rough, with a slight Pannonian influence only in the extreme East. The vineyards are located at an altitude of around 200 to 250 meters above sea-level.

Weinviertel DAC

Five years ago, the Weinviertel regional committee was the first to define the typical regional characteristics of its wine-growing region, and implemented this in practice for the first time in 2003. Although naturally the task had been tackled with some optimism, few people at the time would have thought that these measures would have such a lasting effect in promoting quality wine production, and in supporting the marketing of the wine-growing region as a whole.

The introduction of the "Weinviertel DAC" wine category has played a significant role in creating a clearly positive positioning for the Weinviertel region, and of the wines produced there from the Grüner Veltliner grape. As a result, the wine industry in the Weinviertel is today in a better position than ever before. By now, more than 500 producers are producing some 1.8 million bottles of "Weinviertel DAC" annually. This is a measure of success that one cannot imagine being without any more, it is by now an important base fort the success of numerous producers. The reasons for this success can be found in the rigorous implementation of the DAC concept, and in the sustained adherence to the basic taste profile established within the system.

Unmistakeable character

The permitted variety for Weinviertel DAC wines: Grüner Veltliner

A current study has confirmed that Grüner Veltliner wines from the Weinviertel are associated with a distinct aroma and taste profile, which is seen as clearly different from those of otheer wine-growing regions. Chemical analyses and statistical evaluation of tastings have confirmed that Grüner Veltliner wines from the Weinviertel exhibit a very consistent quality potential, and that they produce a consistent, distinct basic aroma that differs from that of other wine-growing regions. Wines produced in neighbouring wine-growing regions from the same variety, which were used for comparison purposes, showed a similar taste profile, which nevertheless differed from that of the Weinviertel wines in several decisive points.
Therefore, it can be claimed there is a scientific foundation for the claim of a distinct character of Grüner Veltliner from the Weinviertel region, and of Weinviertel DAC wines in particular. This obviously provides great satisfaction to Roman Pfaffl, the president of the regional committee, although it did not really come as a great surprise to him, as he is recognised as one of the best producers in the Weinviertel, and in Austria as a whole.

This impression has been confirmed by a tasting conducted by Wein-Plus on the wines of the 2006 vintage from this region. Pear and apple aromas were noted particularly frequently, together with the typical peppery notes associated with this variety. While many wines in the past showed a rather rustic style, this has evolved to a more approachable crisp character with moderate mineral notes, without the wines losing any of their distinct character of origin.

What exactly is a „Weinviertel DAC“ wine?

The wines must all comply with the legal regulations with regard to quality wines. The Weinviertel DAC wine is a Grüner Veltliner typical of the region, recognisable by its pale yellow to yellow-green colour, as well as by its spicy, peppery, elegantly fruity taste. It must be fermented dry, with no more than 6g/l of residual sugar, and may not show any oak or botrytis notes. The alcohol content must be a minimum of 12 % by volume. The wines are subjected to an additional tasting, and the tasting panel must confirm each wine shows the typical regional and varietal character specified.


Summary

Of course one could debate endlessly over whether the minimum alcohol level, set at 12%, is too high, and whether Grüner Veltliner wines with an alcohol content of more than 13% are still typical. However, we can attest to the fact that the typical character, and the distinct taste of origin of the "Weinviertel DAC" wines was clearly evident in this tasting, so that any further discussions appear to be rather hypothetical.

More than 2/3 of the wines tasted were rated „very good“, some of them even higher, with our tasting representing a cross-section of all the individual sub-regions of the Weinviertel region. Across the board, they are versatile partners with food, usually with an excellent value-for-money ratio, and should generally be drunk within two years of the harvest.

A list of all the Weinviertel DAC wines of the 2006 vintage tasted can be found here.