London and wine? Is it possible that one of the greatest and most interesting capitals of wine can be found in a country that hardly has a 1000 hectares of vineyards to show for itself? Yes! England has a very long history when it comes to wine and the wine trade. However, Tokaj was never the favourite wine of Londoners, whether in the past or now.
The London wine scene is one of the most fascinating in Europe, perhaps in the whole world. Exceptional wine tastings take place practically every single day. Numerous wine clubs are part and parcel of a vibrant, pulsating wine scene. Even for London, an invitation to a tasting of 18th century Tokaji Aszú wines is extraordinary. 
 

14,--€ per millilitre – one can afford two or three

The crowning glory of Tokaji Aszú, the sweet botrytis wines produced in Tokaj, is the Eszencia – not to be mistaken for an Aszú-Eszencia. The fact that the names sound similar causes many instances of mistaken identity, with one being taken for the other. In terms of sensory appreciation, Eszencia is much sweeter, has an almost black colour, and is viscous like honey. The juice can contain up to 80% pure sugar. Which in turn means that fermentation can easily take 20 years, and even then will result in an alcohol level of only 2-4%. Aszú means as much as dried or shrivelled – this does not refer to the wine, but to the condition of the grapes when they are picked – dried and raisiny.

The free-run juice obtained without any pressing ist he basis for what will later become Eszencia. Highly concentrated and extremely sweet juice from raisined grapes that is collected drop by drop. These wines are only produced in the most exceptional vintages, and even then only in tiny quantities – pure nectar. These wines are virtually indestructible, although the prices they fetch can quickly destroy the wine lover’s hopes of ever tasting such a wine. In the past, brandy was often added to the wine in order to make it more drinkable.
The two main protagonists of this memorable wine tasting were two bottles sourced from the „Royal Saxon Wine Cellar“. There were initially three bottles, of which one was auctioned a few weeks earlier at Christie’s in London for € 7.485. Given a bottle content of 0,5 litres, that amounts to almost € 14,-- per millilitre  - so if you are feeling generous, you might allow yourself two or three millilitres.
  
Provenance of the bottles

Where do such bottles come from, and what have they experienced? As in the case of our two bottles, it is not always possible to track every single detail. A certain Mister Dennis Weathley auctioned off part of his wine cellar in 1968, Michael Broadbent MW was the auctioneer at the time. One bottle, bearing the crossed swords of the royal house of Saxony, as well as the word “Hofkellerei” (royal winery/cellars) was estimated by experts to date back to 1649. Externally, our bottle with its red wax seal looks exactly identical, see illustration bottom right, which means it could be from the same year. However, it appears more likely that this bottle made its appearance at an auction in Dresden in 1927. At that auction, 62 bottles of Tokaj from the Saxon royal cellar came under the hammer, with 49 of the bottles dating to the period 1718 to 1749. This kind of historical background is fascinating, making the wines and the history come alive again, and mingling in our minds. For instance, the oldest wine in the Fukier collection, a collection well known among experts, is reputed to date back to 1606, however the collection, which consists of several hundred bottles, has to date not appeared on the market. 
 

What will a wine taste like once it is more than 200 years old?

The royal “Schnapsgustl” or tipsy lady

Alfred Ungermann was the butler of the last king of Saxony, Friedrich August III, who thus had intimate knowledge of the royal drinking habits. Of Princess Mathilda, the king’s sister, he states the following: “We called her Schnapsgustl, or the tipsy lady, because of her great love of a good bottle of wine. I frequently had to go down into the royal cellars to bring her a bottle of Tokaj“. A lovely little story on the periphery, just imagine what might have happened if the princess had learnt of her „affectionate“ name. It seems almost certain that this royal tipsy lady tasted the wines of our tasting in her time, a kind of royal pre-taster.

Anticipation and questions

But how does a wine taste that is more than 200 years old? Is it still drinkable, or is it only vinegar? What does a wine look like at this age? How does one feel, considering the grapes might have been picked at the time of the French Revolution.

You can thus imagine that we, Jürg Richter and myself, were bursting with curiosity and anticipation when we landed at London Heathrow. Everything had been perfectly planned and prepared. The hotel was located only 3 minutes on foot from the tasting venue, we had printed out the necessary London Tube connections, and some time in hand to have a meal first. That really is a necessary part of the preparation, as the extreme acid and sugar levels have led some tasters in the past to throw in the towel at an early stage.

Who had the honour of participating?

One of the participants at the tasting was Hugh Johnson, who needs no further introduction. As part owner of an estate in Tokaj he was predestined fort his type of evening. He was able to add many details to the tasting, and was involved in lively discussion at our table, and a really nice person on top of it all.
Another guest was Jürg Richter, a recognised Sauternes and Tokaj expert from Switzerland, Neal Martin is a well-known London-based wine journalist who can be found at virtually any interesting tasting in the environs of the city, and Frank Strzyzewski. He has been busy writing a book on Tokaj for the past 10 years, and is thus a valuable source of information. In addition, he has written a travel guide of Budapest.

The wines

The wines were poured individually, and then discussed. The first wine had come from Hugh Johnson’s private cellar. In his opinion, this was a 3 puttonyos Royal Tokaj dating from around 1930, which surprised us with a still prominently malty sweetness. This was followed by a 1919 Aszú-Esszencia, which has only recently been released by the state wine museum, and was thus freshly corked. This in turn was followed by the same wine, but of the 1916 vintage. Both extremely different in their quality.

The worst wine of the evening followed, a 1904 Tokay Ausbruch Royal Cellars, sourced from a Viennese merchant.
Then we progressed to the wines we had all been waiting for, the two bottles from the 18th century. These too presented in totally different condition. Both wines were liquid history, one of them on top form, the other way past its peak. 
 

„Critical moments“....?         These two seem to be enjoying it....!

 
Next up were the extremely sweet, concentrated Eszencias. First there was a 1947 Tokaji Eszencia from the Tokaji Wine Trust. This was followed by Eszencias from 1888 and 1889. Again, there were worlds of difference in the form in which these wines presented themselves. The 1888, which after all has been of pensionable age for several decades, will probably live to see another 118 years, and still be a pleasure to drink. In days gone by, a spoon was supplied with this type of wine, which seems to me to be an eminently sensible arrangement.
Classic or modern?

To finish of this stage, there were another seven wines covering the vintages of 1993 to 2000. It was certainly interesting to compare the classical variant with its typical oxidative note with the modern, strongly fruit-driven style. In my opinion, the first style is clearly the more complex one, with great finesse, more depth and a clear, typical character. To me the modern style is headed in the direction of an international style, with lots of fresh exotic fruit, and loses some of its unique character. In one of these wines, one could clearly draw parallels with a Sauternes. In another case you could palpably feel the barriques – this makes wine more uniform than is the case with some of the oenological procedures currently being debated so critically. Unique character is something many wine-growing regions today are fighting to retain and achieve, and are the envy of others, who must build up such profiles over time with a great deal of effort, for such unique and recognisable characteristics. Jürg Richter, together with a few others, favours the more modern style of production. In terms of consumer appeal and sales opportunities this is certainly an argument that cannot be ignored. But if the better sales option, which may reflect a fashionable trend, is achieved at the expense of clearly discernible and unique characteristics, then perhaps this is too much of a short-term approach.

The tasting notes

General impressions

The wines were constantly changing in the glass, most of them improved with aeration. The 1930 vintage from Hugh Johnson’s cellar was initially musty and oxidised, then blossomed, then virtually collapsed, and then again showed in much better shape towards the end of the tasting. All of the wines, particularly the 1888 and the 1889, and of course the two venerable gentlemen from the mid-18th century, produced goosebumps, and transported us into a different age. I always try and imagine what life was like more than two centuries ago – the people involved, how they brought in the harvest, what tools and means they had when producing the wine – what if these people could taste the wine today – thus one can spin out these thoughts endlessly. How I would have loved to have been there at the time.

Approx. 1930 „Royal Tokaji“ 3 puttonyos – from Hugh Johnson’s cellar
Very opaque, tawny colour, initially appears oxidised, talcum, similar to mature Madeira, toffee, has some depth, alcoholic. Fresh acidity on the palate, medium sweet with malty notes, fairly well balanced, caramel, madeira touch evident again, quite elegant, fairly short finish. The wine breaks down after 15 minutes, then revives again after 1 hour. Absolutely superb for a 3 puttonyos wine.

1919 Ascú Esszencía – state wine museum, recently released for sale
Open, mature, deep nose, roasted nuts, sugar candy, dried prunes, also has some musty, dank notes, coffee, cognac aromas and some bitter notes develop with aeration. Attractive balance of sweetness and acidity, clear acidity, bitter almonds, roasted nuts, long, elegant finish. Changed dramatically in the course of the tasting. Lovely mature wine full of character.

1916 Ascú Esszencía – state wine museum, recently released for sale
Initially very stinky and downright foul nose reminiscent of vomit – but this disappears completely after 5 minutes, and an attractive cognac nose comes to the fore, together with dried dates, bananas and apricots – lovely, deep and complex. On the palate, significantly more acidity and sweetness than on the 1919, and initially appears more impressive than the 1919. However, the two facets are not integrated, and stand in opposite corners, not really in balance. Appears slightly artificial, possibly fortified – but perhaps I am not doing justice to the wine. Most participants saw this wine differently....

1904 Tokay Ausbruch – Royal Cellar, Viennese merchant (cork very deep in bottle neck!)
Stinky, stables, ethereal, one-dimensional and then oxidised. Breaks down in the glass within 10 minutes, sharp with overpowering volatile acidity.

Mid-18. century „Imperial Tokay“ – Royal wine cellar of Saxony [Bottle A]
To start off with… oh dear!...sharp, plastic, glue, lots of volatile acidity, sour, almost repugnant, then improved slightly after approx ca. 2-3 minutes – some raisins and dried leaves developed, also ammonium chloride, after approx. 15 minutes the nose became increasingly clean (relatively speaking). Mature blue cheese. Initially very short on the palate, just as the nose, biting acidity, sweaty, flat, hard, after approx 1 hour the wine was more or less drinkable...the volatile acidity lived up to its name, and most of it disappeared. Not particularly enjoyable as a wine, but a tremendous experience in historic terms.

Mid-18. century „Imperial Tokay“ – Royal wine cellar of Saxony [bottle B]
Initially similar to bottle A, but not nearly as extreme. Significantly cleaner, deeper and more complex, dried vegetables, some vegetable broth, aldehyde, Madeira character. Then, after 15 minutes, lovely sweet taste with some bitter caramel, hint of dried fruit...apple...good depth and complexity. Much sweeter on the palate...more complex but has slightly sharp acidity, then was really good after an hour, significantly longer finish with noticeable sweet caramel notes. Absolutely tremendous, both as a wine and as a piece of history...a wine that is at least 200 years old !!!! Real gooseflesh material!!

1947 Eszencia – Tokaji Wine Trust, Monimpex Export bottle (Pre -1989 export bottle).
Very viscous, extremely concentrated nose with puréed raisins and currants, licorice, espresso, candied chestnuts are some of the spontaneous associations I cam up with, dried bananas, apricots, apple pieces, all still very youthful and compact, after approx. 30 minutes all opens up a bit more – should be decanted one or more days prior to tasting!! Very big and powerful, extremely compact, concentrated and very sweet melon on the palate, pure raisins, grapey Muscat aromas, balanced by straightforward acidity that the wine also needs, molasses, very dark forest honey, a monumental wine. Virtually endless finish. Will keep for another 100 years. Simply an Eszencia.
This wine has a residual sugar of somewhere around 500-650 g/l!

1889 Eszencia – Zimmermann Lipót és Fiai
Initially quite restrained and shy, even has an elegant touch, coffee, dark chocolate, dried prunes, raisins, malt, perhaps a little Bailey’s liqueur, becomes more complex and multi-layered with aeration – lovely. Not as big as the 1947 Eszencia. On the palate, not as sweet as expected (relatively speaking), creamy, caramel sweets, touch of cognac, candied fruit, very mature but compact acidity, clearly noticeable alcohol (frequently added at the time) – makes the wine appear light and elegant – incredibly refreshing and lively, in terms of weight is like an  Ascú Esszencía. Great finesse on a very long finish.

1888 Esszencía – state wine museum, recently released for sale
Just pouring this was quite a sensation: it really does drip into the glass like honey. To swirl the wine in the glass, you have to move the glass around its horizontal axis on the table. Another step up on the 1947 in all respects. Stays forever, be it in the bottle, decanter or glass. Probably has no more than 2% alcohol, a multitude of aromas, all you need is a sip or two, for the whole evening. I wrote down very few notes, just concentrated on enjoying the wine. Refer to the notes on the 1947, except that every aspect was concentrated to the extreme!! Liquid raisins and grapes, syrupy.....

2000 „Blue Label“ 5 puttonyos – Royal Tokaji
Fresh clean nose, cool mint and some menthol, fresh apricots, vanilla and some buttery notes, floral and light mineral notes in the background. On the palate, a good combination of freshness and typical Tokaj sweetness, light exotic fruit, very long finish with finesse. A classy wine.

2000 Tokaji Aszú 6 puttonyos - Gróf Degenfeld
Very open, mature nose, prominent citrus fruit – lemons, limes and grapefruit, very compact and youthful, some orange zest and vanilla develop with aeration, modern style. Not very sweet on the palate, relatively speaking, clear acidity, fresh and fruity, more light, fresh, exotic fruit, juicy and made in an easy-drinking style. Very well made, this is the new modern style.

2000 Tokaji Ascú Eszencia - Pendits
Initially quite a restrained nose, but then comes across as very modern, creamy and buttery, some crème brulée, fresh herbs, touch of oak in the background. Elegant nose. Very well balanced on the palate, elegant, quite mature and developed, therefore already quite drinkable, creamy structure, nevertheless appears fresh, not much botrytis, more like a full-bodied Sauternes, very good, but intended more for a medium maturation potential (20-30 years). Basically very good as a wine – but not showing much of the „old genes“ of Ascú Eszencia.

1999 Tokaji Ascú 6 puttonyos - Disznókõ
Initially quite restrained, light aromas of honey, peaches, some pears, again some cool mint, but also some creamy notes, after about 2 hours some darker botrytis notes come to the fore, such as darker honey, tobacco, sugar beet syrup. All the flavours are very youthful and compact on the palate, prominent fresh acidity and almost filigree sweetness, light dried fruit, some roasted nuts, a classy, stylish wine. Great potential

1999 Tokaji Ascú 6 puttonyos - Oremus
Very restrained botrytis nose, oxidative style in the background, tobacco tin, forest honey, pistachioes, compact and concentrated, needs extended aeration. Mature acidity on the palate, full-bodied and concentrated, dried dates, moderate raisins, nutty, all very well balanced but still a little closed, very long, concentrated finish. A very classy wine with great potential.

1994 Tokaji Ascú 6 puttonyos – Szarvas, Crown Estates
Very mature nose, dark aromas of freshly pressed Muscat grapes, sweet malted notes, fresh tobacco, floral notes, mixed raisins and nuts, deep and complex. Perfect balance on the palate, mature, restrained acidity, you can virtually taste the dried grapes (try tasting some grapes that have been infected with botrytis some time – it is exactly the same taste), more tobacco tin, some milk chocolate mousse, touch of espresso, deep, very long finish. Classical style, beautiful. Should be a real experience in 20 years time.

1993 Tokaji Ascú 6 puttonyos – Mézes Mály, Royal Tokaji
More subdued than the 1994, lighter notes, also a touch of exotic fruit, becomes more complex towards the end of the tasting; although the wine is fairly restrained, it appears very well balanced. Quite tranquil, can already be enjoyed at this stage, the same goes for the palate, lighter notes as well as some tobacco, a little grapefruit, yellow plums, elegant and filigree. A hybrid between the modern and the classical style, but leans towards the modern side. Wonderful wine!

Historical background and context for the older vintages

18th century
	United States of America founded French revolution 1789 Scientific discoveries and early stages of the industrial revolution. James Cook circumnavigates the world in the 1770’s. European settlement of Australia begins in 1788. Wars of Empire between Great Britain, France and Spain Important personalities:Johann Sebastian Bach, composer James Cook Benjamin Franklin, US inventor and statesman Frederick II. Of Prussia Joseph Haydn, composer Thomas Jefferson, US politician Immanuel Kant, German philosopher Katharina II (known as Catherine the Great) Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, composer Isaac Newton, English physicist Friedrich Schiller Voltaire, French author and philosopher
1888
	1888 was a famous year in German history, with three emperors ruling. William I. died on 9th March, and was succeeded by his son Frederick III, who had cancer, and ruled for only three months until he succumbed to his disease on 15th June. He was succeeded the same day by William II., emperor of Germany and king of Prussia.5. August - Bertha Benz drives from Mannheim to Pforzheim in her husband Carl Benz’s car, together with her two children, and without the knowledge of her husband. This is the first recorded overland trip of a motor carWilhelm Hallwachs discovers the photo-electric effect.
1889
	In Paris, the Eiffel tower is built to commemorate the centenary celebrations of the French revolution. World exhibition in Paris. Brazil declares itself a republic.
1904
	Russian-Japanese War begins. Entente between France and Great Britain established. World exhibition in St. Louis, Missouri, USA - Louisiana Purchase Exposition, the Lousiana-Monument. Beginning of the Olympic Sumemr Games in St. Louis, Missouri, USA. US Army engineers build the Panama Canal (up to 1914). Born: Kurt Georg Kiesinger, German politician and federal chancellor († 1988) Robert Oppenheimer, US physicist († 1967) Salvador Dali, Spanish surrealist painter († 1989)
1916
	The battle of Verdun extracts its toll - 700.000 dead, wounded and missing The battle of the Somme – here there are more than 1 million dead, wounded and missing The longest railroad line in the world, the Trans-Siberian railway, is completed Born: Yehudi Menuhin, US violinist († 1999) François Mitterand, French state president († 1996)
1919
	Republic of Committees in Hungary First non-stop Transatlantic flight by John Alcock and Arthur Whitten-Brown 22. Juni Contract of Versailles signed The national assembly at Weimar gives Germany a democratic parliamentary constitution. Ernest Rutherford converts nitrogen into oxygen under laboratory conditions: 147N + 42He -> 178O + 11H League of Nations founded
1930er
	World-wide economic crisis, unemployment until the mid-1930’s Fascists come to power in Germany - Adolf Hitler - 1933 Spanish civil war (1936-1939) Start of World War II (1939)
1947
	1. January - "Bizone" established in Germany: the British and the US occupation zones are combined into a common economic zone. The French zone is added at a later stage.