At first sight, Grabouw is an unprepossessing little place. That does not change at second sight. The small centre of town boasts a few supermarkets and a few pubs, and even at the height of summer foreigner walking the streets are an exception. All the hustle and bustle of Stellenbosch or Franschhoek, the sophisticated souvenir shops and the stately manor houses with their grass roofs - none of that is to be found here. And if you go shopping in Grabouw on a Saturday afternoon, perhaps to buy some meat for the traditional evening braai (barbecue), finds himself in the heart of Africa, an impression often missing in the more touristy centres of the winelands.

Breathtaking scenery

Small wine capital with great plans

It is hard to believe that Grabouw, located in idyllic scenery on the fringes of a huge nature reserve, is also the most important centre of the Elgin wine-growing region. It is located only around 45 minutes drive from Cape Town airport, with the road initially winding up the over the Hottentots-Holland mountains, and then descending a little again after the mountain pass. There is a breathtaking view of False Bay from the top of Sir Lowry’s Pass - with not a vine to be seen at that stage. Little wonder, then, that most tourists cross the so-called Elgin ward as quickly as possible, a region that is already no longer part of the Coastal Region, but rather is part of the Overberg district. At the most they will stop at one of the farm stalls along the main road in order to buy some muffins or biltong (dried meat) before rushing on to Hermanus or to Port Elizabeth, if they are travelling on the famous scenic Garden Route. Without a doubt, those in a hurry are missing out on some interesting wines.

Vineyards stretch in all directions

From apples to wine

Just a few blocks from the centre of Grabouw you can see what progress winemaking has experienced here in recent years. Together with his wife Sabine, Sascha Sulliman-Exner has settled here in a beautiful villa. Painstaking and detailed work went into designing rooms and garden suites that resulted in the „Villa Exner” guest house being awarded the highest classification of five stars immediately after its opening. In the evenings, food is prepared from regional products, and an excellent wine list shows off the best wines of the Elgin area. And of course, even Sauvignon and Chardonnay fans should try the freshly pressed apple juice at least once, perhaps as an aperitif while sitting on the veranda. After all, Elgin’s main claim to fame still lies in its apples, with perfect climatic conditions available. „After all, it is always a few degrees cooler here than it is in Stellenbosch”, says Exner. In fact, a few clever wine producers from Stellenbosch found that out many years ago, and saw the benefit for the grapes - they buy the grapes in Elgin, which lies at an altitude of around 450 metres above sea level, and cart them across the mountains for processing in Stellenbosch. „I have no doubt at all that Elgin will one day be the best wine-producing region in South Africa”, laughs Andrew Gunn. The owner of the Iona estate is one of the few producers to actually produce their wines here - but he has ambitious ideas, and these are by no means restricted to white grapes. „We have also planted Shiraz, Mourvèdre and Petit Verdot”, smiles Gunn. „The climate in Elgin is extremely varied, there are differing slopes with differing aspects to the sun, differing distances to the ocean - you must simply take care in choosing the right site for the right purpose.”

Paul Clover, pinoeer oft he Elgin wine-growing region

Helping people help themselves

Paul Cluver, the pioneer wine producer in the Elgin region, has also made his choice. It was back in the 1980’s that the fruit farmer, who is a neurosurgeon by training, that he wanted not only to sell apples, pears and plums, but also wanted to cultivate vines. Today the vineyard area of his estate exceeds 100 hectares in extent, planted with, among other, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewürztraminer or Cabernet Sauvignon. However, his most famous wines are those made from Riesling: a dry variant, which is perhaps of lesser interest to German palates, as well as the sweeter Special and Noble Late Harvests.

Even more frequently, the media report on the Thandi community project created by Paul Cluver. Located right next to the highway, an agricultural project was started here in 1995 that has become a standard for all other similar projects. At the time, the export markets for apples were in the doldrums. Jobs were on the line. Cluver looked beyond his own personal interests, and realised the potential of the new South Africa. Working in co-operation with the state and the local authorities, he created an alternative even for workers with no formal training or education. Today, more than 200 people are employed at the Thandi project, cultivating fruit, vegetables and flowers, supplying souvenirs they have made or sewn themselves to the local store, and serving hearty dishes in the small farm guest house. You can notice how proud the employees are of the project, which has long since become their own project too. And they are right to be proud, the wines produced here are certainly worth a second look: the Shiraz-Cabernet blend is elegant, while the Pinot Noir is fresh and fruity, and only very slightly rustic in style. Both wines go well with the delicious fried sausage served with green peas from the project’s own fields, as well as with a mountain of mashed potatoes. You are wonderfully sated after only a few bites, and not for a moment will one miss the hustle and bustle of Stellenbosch or Franschhoek, which may appear somewhat kitsch as one sits here!


Wine estates and restaurants

Iona Vineyards
PO Box 527
Grabouw 7160
Tel. 0027/28-2849678
gunn@iona.co.za
www.iona.co.za 

Paul Cluver
N 2
Grabouw 7160
Tel. 0027/21-8440605
info@cluver.co.za
www.cluver.com 

Thandi Farm Kitchen
N 2
Grabouw 7160
Tel. 0027/21-8440343
www.thandi.com 

Villa Exner
11 Essenhout Avenue,
Grabouw 7160
Tel. 0027/21-8593596
sascha@villaexner.com
www.villaexner.com