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20.12.2011
Spain
Navarra - diversity and fervency
From Carsten M. Stammen
Readers letter (so far 1)

The Navarra region is located in the northeast of Spain, between the Pyrenees and the Ebro valley. It covers an area of more than 10,000 square kilometres, and is characterized by both a tremendous cultural heritage and by marked climatic diversity. The situation is unique on the Iberian peninsula, with a meeting of Atlantic, continental and Mediterranean climates, producing exceptionally diverse ecosystems and vegetation: hillside slopes, river landscapes, plains and high-altitude plains combine to create a diverse landscape. The soft, deep, fertile soils contain a large proportion of limestone.

(Photo: Navarre Designation of Origin Regulatory Board)

The wine growing region covers a vineyard area of around 12,000 hectares, and is located to the south of the regional capital Pamplona. With the exception of eight communes (see the section on “Quality system in Navarra”), it bears the protected designation of origin “Denominación de Origen Protegida” (DOP), which replaced the previous designation “Denominación der Origen” (DO) within the scope of the EU wine market reforms of 2009. Navarra consists of five growing districts: Baja Montaña, Valdizarbe, Tierra Estella, Ribera Alta and Ribera Baja.

A viticultural tradition going back thousands of years

The history of viticulture in Navarra can be traced back to Roman times. In fact, traces of an historic form of vine, thought to date back some five million years, have been found. Remains of antique Roman wine cellars, graves and amphorae provide evidence of the social and economic importance of wine in this period. This importance remained even during the period of Moorish rule in the 8th century. When the first monasteries were founded in the 9th and 10th century, and the St. James trail, which runs through Pamplona, was founded in the 11th century, the vineyards were extended further. Cellar technology made progress in the monasteries, and pilgrims brought new vines to the region.

(Photo: Navarre Designation of Origin Regulatory Board)
Navarra was an important producer and exporter of wine as long ago as the 14th century. It is believed the vineyard area reached its greatest extent in the early 15th century, extending even to the north of Pamplona. However, considerations regarding the food supply situation for the citizens of the kingdom of Navarra led to the production of cereals gradually becoming more important than the wine industry. The phylloxera infestation spread to France in the mid-19th century, which resulted in the vineyard area in Navarra growing again, to around 50,000 hectares, to produce wine for export to the neighbouring country. However, within a few years, phylloxera has also spread to Navarra, wiping out 97 per cent of the vineyard area there. In the period following this, all the vineyard areas in Spain were replanted with grafted vines, and today the wine industry in Navarra is experiencing the highest levels of quality ever.

Qualitative and economic development

For a long time, Navarra represented practically exclusively the rosé wines made from the indigenous Garnacha grape. However, the development of the wine industry in Navarra during the past two decades has totally changed the styles and types of wine produced, and this change is still ongoing. In addition to the traditional grape varieties Viura, Tempranillo and, as already mentioned, Garnacha, the 1980’s saw the introduction of international grape varieties such as Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The new varieties have adapted well to the conditions in the region, providing the wines with a new expression without detracting from the quality of the traditional varieties.

The main changes began in the 1990’s, when a few „restless“ wine producers, intent on both retaining and developing the viticultural tradition of the region with a mixture of ambition, quality consciousness and a tendency to experimentation, introduced new methods as well as revolutionary concepts. In 2008 the Navarra designation of origin celebrated its 75th anniversary, and since then a new set of regulations has actually encouraged and supported the further modernisation of both vineyards and cellars. In 2010, Navarra exported around 151,200 hectolitres of wine, more than half of this to other European countries. The largest markets for Navarra wine are Germany, the Netherlands, Great Britain and the USA.

Focus on red and rosé wines

(Photo: Navarre Designation of Origin Regulatory Board)
70 per cent of the wines produced in Navarra are red wines, and 25 per cent are rosé wines. The few white wines produced are mainly sweet dessert wines. The dominant position of wines produced from red grapes is reflected in the varieties grown: 94 per cent of the vines produce red grapes, only around six per cent of the grapes cultivated are white. Local indigenous varieties account for more than 70 per cent of the vineyard area, the remaining 30 per cent are planted with international varieties.

The leading red grape varieties in Navarra are Tempranillo (around a third), Garnacha, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Graciano and Mazuelo (Carignan), as well as, more recently, Syrah and Pinot Noir. The main white grapes are Chardonnay, Viura, Moscatel and Malvasía, augmented by some more recent Sauvignon Blanc. This wide range of varieties produces a wide spectrum of wines: white wines matured in stainless steel or in oak, fresh rosé wines with red fruit aromas, young or oak-matured red wines as well as sweet dessert wines.

The Quality system in Navarra

The quality levels for Navarra wines include single-vineyard wines as well as wines from three protected designations of origin, and from two protected geographic designations (PGI, PDO):

  • Single vineyard wines (Vinos de Pago)
    A single vineyard wine is grown in a demarcated geographical area that shows specific characteristics with regard to climate, soil and vegetation. This area may consist of several separate vineyards in an area. The wines must be produced and matured separately from the other wines produced by the winery, and the production process must be clearly traceable. There are three recognized and protected Vino de Pago areas in Navarra: Pago Señorío de Arínzano, Pago Prado de Irache and Pago de Otazu.
  • Wines with a protected designation of origin (DOP)
    A total of three protected designations of origin are permitted in the Navarra region: DOP Navarra, DOP Rioja and DOP Cava. The DOP Navarra consists of the vineyards and wines from 95 communes, and is restricted exclusively to the Navarra region. The DOP Rioja includes eight communes in Navarra in its protected designation of origin, these are located on the left bank of the Ebro river, and are part of the Rioja Baja sub-region: Viana, Aras, Bargota, Mendavia, Sartaguda, Andosilla, San Adrián and Azagra. The vineyard areas of these communes account for a total of 6,800 hectares. The DOP Cava refers exclusively to sparkling wines produced in specified communes in a total of ten provinces. In Navarra, the two communes of Mendavia and Viana are included in this protected designation of origin.
  • Wines with a protected geographic indication (IGP)
    The designation of origin IGP stands for Indicación Geográfica Protegida, and replaces the designation Vino de la Tierra (VdlT), valid until 2009. There are two such protected geographic indications in Navarra: The IGP 3 Riberas designates and protects a table wine, which is also permitted to bear the traditional designation “country wine”, and which is produced exclusively in Navarra. The IGP Ribera del Queiles applies to table wines from the growing area of the Queiles river, it includes nine communes in the Aragon region as well as seven communes in Navarra: Ablitas, Barillas, Cascante, Monteagudo, Murchante, Tudela and Tulebras.

(Photo: Navarre Designation of Origin Regulatory Board)

As mentioned above, the DOP Navarra is sub-divided into five districts, which are briefly presented below.

Baja Montaña – the North-east

Baja Montaña is located in the northeast of Navarra, on the border with Aragon, and includes 22 communes. The capital of this sub-region is Sangüesa. The landscape is hilly, with lush shrubs, with viticulture dominating on the few arable areas. The vineyard area totals around 2,400 hectares, predominantly planted with red varieties such as Garnacha (more than 60 per cent) and Tempranillo (25 per cent). In terms of climate, the zone is located between the fairly wet north and the extremely dry south of the region. Annual precipitation varies between 760 and 470 millimetres, and the differences in altitude lead to differences in the growing periods of the vines, as they do in the other northern regions. The Pyrenees are the major influence in the Baja Montaña.

The soils are red and yellow, and are frequently rich in limestone and gravel, they have developed differently, depending on the basic material present and the landscape contours. Most of the slopes in the northern section have soils of varying depth, with no stones and heavy in structure, on grey marl dating back to the marine Eocene in the Lumbia basin In the other sections, the slopes show varying light to heavy soils, with more or less stones, either light and thin or rich in clay on alternating layers of marl and sand from the continental Tertiary structures of the Ebro plains. In the valleys and in the remnants of alluvial terraces on the Irati and Aragón rivers, gravel soils predominate. Here the vines grow on light, deep soils with excellent drainage.

(Photo: Navarre Designation of Origin Regulatory Board)

Valdizarbe – the North

Valdizarbe lies at the intersection of the St. James trail in northern Navarra, to the south of the Pamplona basin. The capital of the sub-region is Puente La Reina, the area includes 25 communes located primarily along the banks of the Arga river, amidst gently rolling hills and valleys. In the west, the region is bounded by the foothills of the Sierra de Andía, and in the north by the Sierra del Perdón. The vineyard area totals around 1,400 hectares, planted primarily with Tempranillo, Garnacha, Cabernet and Merlot in almost equal parts, in addition there are smaller amounts of Chardonnay and Malvasía. In terms of climate, Valdizarbe is the most northerly point of the Navarra wine growing region, and is the sub-region with the highest precipitation. The surrounding mountain chains reduce the Atlantic influence, and the vineyards are located in the most sunny regions. As is the case with Baja Montaña, Valdizarbe is located between the wet north and the dry south of the Navarra region. Annual precipitation varies between 807 and 544 millimetres.

In Valdizarbe, too, the brown chalky soils show quite some variation: heavy, without stones and of varying depth in the north, partially on a sub-stratum of grey marl; on the other slopes alternating layers of marl and sand from the continental Tertiary period, some stony and some less so, of varying depth, with a fine muddy clay structure, and with a characteristic red colour in some places. As is the case in other areas, some vineyards are located on alluvial soils on the remains of the terraces of the Arga and Salado rivers, as well as on those of the Sierra del Perdón glacier. The terrain is practically flat with good drainage, the soils are deep with a clay texture, and frequently stony.

(Photo: Navarre Designation of Origin Regulatory Board)

Tierra Estella – the North-west

Tierra Estella is located in the northwest of Navarra, along the St. James trail. This sub-region, the capital of which is Estella, comprises 38 communes, in the west it borders on the Basque region as well as on Rioja. In the north, the Urbasa and Andía mountain ranges form the border, protecting the region from Atlantic climatic influences. The Egy river runs through the region, which is hilly in the north, and becomes more flat as one goes south. Tempranillo is grown on almost half the total vineyard area of 3,000 hectares, followed by Cabernet Sauvignon, which accounts for 20 per cent; the most widely grown white variety is Chardonnay. In Tierra Estella, too, a dry, partly semi-humid climate prevails, with annual precipitation ranging from 700 to 454 millimetres, with most of the vineyards placed in the sunniest locations.

Deep, clay-rich soils on layers of coloured marl dating back to the Trias period can be found on the slopes of Estella and Lorca. For the remainder, the soils of the hilly region are of varying depth and have more or less stones, with fine or silty character on alternating layers of marl, sand and a conglomerate of continental Tertiary layers, some of them with a pronounced red hue. In the valleys with alluvial soils, the remnants of the terraces along the Ega, Iranzu and Odrón rivers as well as on the Montejurra glacier fields, the vines grow on a fairly flat, deep soil, frequently quite gravelly, with a healthy texture.

(Photo: Navarre Designation of Origin Regulatory Board)

Ribera Alta – the Centre

Ribera Alta is the central section of Navarra, located on the transition to the south of the region, and includes 26 communes. The sub-region has a total vineyard area of 5,800 hectares, accounting for almost a third of the total of the DOP Navarra. Tempranillo is the dominant variety, but other red varieties are also strongly represented, particularly Graciano. Towards the north, and around the Ega river, the region shows gentle inclines, and becomes more flat towards the south. Ribera Alta consists of two parts: one is around the town of Olite, which is also an important viticultural centre, here there is an intermediate type of climate, whereas in the region of Lerín and Marcilla the climate is already decidedly arid. As the influences of the Atlantic and the Pyrenees are not noticeable here, the zone is hotter than the area to the north. The landscape is flat, and the changes in climate are gradual. Average precipitation varies between 507 and 349 millimetres, the vineyards experience drought conditions in summer.

Marl rich in limestone is the predominant type of soil, close to the rivers one finds alluvial soils with red and sandy spots. Most of the slopes consist of soils of varying depth, and with more or less stony consistency, light and thin or with clay on alternating layers of marl and sand dating to the continental Tertiary era, with the exception of a few small patches close to Cárcar, Sesma, Lerín or Falces. There the soils are thin-layered, with a clay structure and a high gypsum content where they are located above alternating layers of marl and gypsum. There are deep soils from the Quarternary era on the alluvial terraces along the Ega, Arga, Cidacos and Aragón rivers. Their composition is frequently light and stony, providing excellent drainage. On the terraces at higher altitudes, such as Monplanet in Olite or the Saso de Santacara, limestone crusts are frequently found close to the surface.

(Photo: Navarre Designation of Origin Regulatory Board)

Ribera Baja – the South

Ribera Baja is located in the south of Navarra, in the Ebro valley between Aragon and Rioja. The capital of this sub-region is Tudela, comprises 14 communes and is located on a large, flat plain with sparse vegetation, dominated by the imposing Sierra del Moncayo. The vineyard area of around 5,200 hectares in Ribera Baja accounts for almost 30 per cent of the total vineyard area of the DOP Navarra. Tempranillo is the dominant grape variety at 40 per cent, followed by Garnacha at 30 per cent. In addition, Ribera Baja features the largest area in the region planted with Viura and Moscatel. This area is the driest zone in Navarra, with a fairly constant semi-arid climate. The average annual precipitation lies in the range of 361 to 384 millimetres, and here, too, vines experience drought conditions.

Brown chalky soils predominate in the north of the area, with brown and grey semi-desert terrain in the south. A large part of the vines is grown on soils of varying levels on the Quarternary terraces of the Ebro river, as well as on its tributaries on the right bank. These are flat, deep soils with a light structure, often quite stony. On the terraces at higher altitudes, limestone crusts are found close to the surface, such as at Montes de Cierzo. In the most southerly section of the zone, which is dominated by Mount Moncayo, one finds dense soils with a muddy, clay structure, partly stony, on alternating layers of marl and sand, as well as conglomerates from the continental Tertiary layers of the Ebro plains.

(Photo: Navarre Designation of Origin Regulatory Board)

Wine estates

The following producers from the Navarra region submitted tasting samples for the current tasting:

Aroa Bodegas, Zurukoain - Gorozin

Following the Roman viticultural tradition in the region, the Aroa estate was founded in 1998. In the Basque language, Aroa describes “the optimum time to till the land”. The bodega is located in the Deierri valley in Tierra Estella, on a hill on the south-eastern side of the Apalaz mountain, between the towns of Zurukoain and Gorozin. Here one finds both Mediterranean and Atlantic influences on the climate, as well as various soil structures, consisting of varying proportions of sand, clay and limestone. The 20 hectares of vineyard area of the Bodega Aroa are spread over the three areas of Burunziain, Ernobeleta and Aritzarotz, varieties cultivated include Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Garnacha as well as Garnacha Blanca and Moscatel.

Bodega de Sada, Sada

The Bodega de Sada was founded in 1939, and is located in Baja Montaña. The estate owns 600 hectares of vineyards in the Aragon river basin, of which a third was first planted more than 60 years ago. The main variety is Garnacha, the vines are 30 years old on average. The cellar complex is spread over an area of five square kilometres, here the wines are vinified in cement or steel tanks, then matured in barrels of French and American oak.

Bodega de Sarría (Grupo Taninia), Puente La Reina

The land on which the Bodega de Sarría was established in 1953 had previously been put to viticultural use for many centuries, due to the very good climatic and soil conditions around Puente La Reina. The estate owns 210 hectares of vineyards, stretching along the sunny slopes of the Sierra del Perdón as well as those of Olite, Corella and Miranda de Arga. Varieties planted for the production of red wines are Tempranillo, Graciano, Mazuelo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, Garnacha for rosés and Chardonnay for white wines. The Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay vines are on average more than 20 years old, while the Garnacha, Graciano, Tempranillo and Mazuelo vines have an average age of more than 50 years.

(Photo: Navarre Designation of Origin Regulatory Board)

Bodega Inurrieta, Falces

The Inurrieta name refers to an estate on which the ancestors of the current family owners carried on viticulture around a hundred years ago. The first vines of the current bodega were planted in 1999. The vineyard area totals 230 hectares, located in the Ribera Alta in a small river valley crossed by the Arga river, at an altitude of 300 to 480 metres above sea level. On the first level of altitude, at an altitude of 300 to 325 metres, one finds soils of sand and clay, with some stones, on which Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Graciano are grown. On the second level of altitude, at between 325 and 375 metres, the soils are rich in clay, and planted with Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, Garnacha and Syrah. The third level of altitude stretches from 375 to 480 metres, here the soils are gravelly with limestone, and Cabernet Sauvignon, Graciano and Merlot are grown here. The cellar complex covers an area of more than 7,000 square metres, providing total control of the entire process of wine production, with functional, hygienic, practical and oenological criteria being considered in its design. The cellar is temperature-controlled, here the wines mature in barrels of French and American oak.

Bodega Naparralde, Corella

The production facilities at Naparralde were already more than 25 years old when Juan Celaya Letamendi established the current wine estate there in 2006, installing state-of-the-art cellar technology. He brought more than 30 years of work experience to the project, and set out from the start to maintain the highest standards of quality. His wines are characterized by rich fruit, carefully judged use of barriques and long maturation in bottle.

Bodegas Ochoa, Olite

The Ochoa family has been involved in viticulture in Navarra since the 14th century. The tradition is currently being maintained by Javier Ochoa and Mariví Alemán, together with their daughters Adriana and Beatriz. The current cellar buildings are more than 160 years old, and were extensively modernized in 1992. Ochoa practices integrated vineyard methods, while utilizing modern technology, and participating in research projects. In the period 1980 to 1992, Javier Ochoa was also responsible for EVENA, the viticultural and oenological institute of Navarra. The estate has a vineyard area of 143 hectares, planted with Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, the red wines are matured in barriques of French and American oak. A tracing programme ensures the development of all wines can be monitored and controlled throughout all phases of the production process.

(Photo: Navarre Designation of Origin Regulatory Board)

Bodegas Piedemonte, Olite

In 1992, a group of quality-conscious wine producers joined forces in founding the Bodegas Piedemonte, today they work a total vineyard area of 352 hectares. The vineyard parcels are located in various parts of the Ribera Alta, they are planted with the following Spanish varieties: Garnacha, Tempranillo, Graciano and Viura, as well as with the following French varieties: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. In addition, sweet wines are produced from Moscatel grapes. The region has a continental climate with dry summers, the soils are stony and rich in clay. The vineyards are frequently laid out in terraces. The production complex is modern, here wines are fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks in a fully air-conditioned cellar, then matured in oak barrels (barricas).

Castillo de Monjardín, Villamayor de Monjardín

The estate is located in the San Esteban valley in Tierra Estella, and was founded in 1986. The current cellar complex, which covers an area of 4,000 square metres, was built in 1994, and works according to environmentally-friendly principles. The vineyard area totals 220 hectares, at an altitude of 400 to more than 600 metres. Varieties grown include Chardonnay, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. In addition, Castillo de Monjardín has the oldest Pinot Noir vineyard in Navarra, established in 1998. The vineyards, many of which have clay-rich soils, are located on sunny slopes, where they benefit from the cooling effects of the Cierzo winds during the hot summers.

Señorío de Otazu, Echauri

Señorío de Otazu, which is located in the Cuenca de Pamplona basin, between the Sierra del Perdón and the Sierra de Echauri, lies in Spain’s most northerly red wine growing region. The area has been classified as a Vino de Pago since 2009, and is owned by the eponymous wine estate. The region has been associated with viticulture in historical, cultural and agricultural terms since the 12th century. The climate is continental with Atlantic influences, featuring plenty of sunshine in the summer months, and adequate rainfall in winter. The vineyard area at Bodega Señorío de Otazu totals 115 hectares, planted with Tempranillo, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. The vines grow on a mixture of clay-rich alluvial terraces, gravel and stone.

(Photo: Navarre Designation of Origin Regulatory Board)

Bodegas Vega del Castillo, Olite

In 1999, the Bodega Cooperativa Olitense in Olite, the Unión de Cooperativas Virgen de Ujué in Ujué and the Cooperativa Vinícola Nuestra Señora de Ujué in Pitillas merged to form the Bodegas Vega del Castillo. The members of the co-operative work a total of 915 hectares of vineyard, implementing technical guidelines set by the bodega. As the vineyard parcels are spread over the sub-regions of Baja Montaña, Ribera Alta and Ribera Baja, the range of wines on offer is extremely varied. Varieties planted include Garnacha (accounts for 45 per cent, many of the vines are more than 80 years old), Viura, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

Devicius Wines, Olite

Devicius Wines stands for wines that combine origin with easy drinking. The founder of the company, Matthias Pawlitta, is a winemaker and globetrotter who has travelled widely in the world of wine. His desire to realize his own potential began with the idea of producing good wines for friends in Spain, called Devicius, based on the Spanish “de vicio”, translated as “sinfully good”. Carefully selected grapes form the foundation of Devicius wines, these produce widely varying basic material depending on the landscape, soil, site and climate where the grapes were grown. In cooperation with like-minded winemakers and cooperatives, these wines are produced and combined in the Devicius blends.

Guelbenzu (Grupo Taninia), Vierlas

The history of the Bodega Guelbenzu goes back to the middle of the 19th century, while the commissioning of the new cellar in Vierlas in 2001 marked a major step forward. Vierlas is located in the area of the IGP Ribera de Queiles, on the border between the wine growing regions Navarra and Aragón. The Guelbenzu estate is now part of the Navarra-based Taninia group, it has 46 hectares of vineyards in Lombana, where Merlot (almost a third of the area), Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Tempranillo, Graciano, Petit Verdot and Garnacha are grown. The soil is stony and infertile, not susceptible to drought or frost, and produces low yields. Strong, dry, cool north winds protect the vines from excess humidity and associated rot, the proximity to the Moncayo mountain provides significant differences between daytime and night-time temperatures, ensuring grapes ripen slowly, developing good aromas.

All recently tasted wines from Navarra in the wine guide

To Navarre Designation of Origin Regulatory Board

To Navarra Bogedas Association


Carsten M. Stammen

Readers letter (so far 1)

 

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