It is not easy for the individual wine producer to make himself heard in the increasingly globalised world of wine. In Austria in the early 1990’s, this realisation led to a veritable boom in special interest and marketing groups. The Austrian Wine Marketing office ÖWM, which was still a recent development at the time, as well as the foreign chambers of commerce played an important part in this, as they made it possible for many wine producers to take part in trade shows at an affordable cost.

Even where one has the strength of a community, things are still not all easy: organisational problems, in-fighting, lack of funds or simply divergently developing interests of individuals - there are many possible reasons for a lack of success. Once the realisation had seeped in that wishful thinking and a brand name on their own did not achieve anything, things quietened down again in the Austrian wine scene.

Among all these groups, those that actually encompassed several wine-growing regions were as rare as hens’ teeth. Naturally, the largest of these groups are well-known, namely the female winemakers’ groups, be they in Austria, Italy or Germany. They, of course, can build on a common factor other than region. But apart from that?

The wine scene in Austria is flush with any number of new ideas and projects, yet even here the Leithaberg project caused quite a stir. Certainly, it had become more frequent in recent years to hear wine producers talking about ”terroir” and ”individual character” instead of the more traditional ”international standards” of old, when describing their flagship wines. Mind you, we are talking about red wines only here, as globalisation has never had a chance with Austrian white wines, certainly not with the top-ranking products. And terroir does not stop at the orders of a wine-growing region.

In the beginning:

Andreas Liegenfeld, president of the brand association "Leithaberg", explains: „It all started when a group of wine producers from Donnerskirchen invited a few colleagues from Purbach, with whom they were on friendly terms, to discuss how one could do more to promote the unique characteristics of the Leithaberg mountains, also known in German as the Leithagebirge." The colleagues from the neighbouring town were soon in agreement, after all this special mountain had been producing special wines for a long time, and all in the area were well aware of the unique characteristics present. It was equally clear that the mountain stretched over quite a distance, and that a number of colleagues from other towns should also join the discussion. These included a number of producers who already had considerable experience of working with marketing associations and with groups of producers, quite apart from the fact that they were outstanding wine producers.

The first round of discussions quickly established which producers valued „their” mountain as highly as did their colleagues from Donnerskirchen and Purbach. In the end, there was a group of 15 producers willing to harness their efforts together. Prominent mineral structure and a certain playful character are the factors that differentiate the wines from this mountain from those of other regions, where richness and full body tend to predominate. The latter characteristics are still important for achieving top ratings in competitions - in spite of all the comments to the contrary by jury members - but elegance, depth and evidence of origin are characteristics that wine lovers have come to value increasingly, while sheer power and sweetish spicy oak and chocolate notes are increasingly regarded with some skepticism.

It is the strong bond of a correctly understood terroir that binds together the 15 members of the „Leithaberg” association. This mountain, which some less poetically-inclined observers would describe as a long, stretched-out hill, the common soil structure and the common mesoclimate are the vinuous home of the wine producers of the Leithaberg. That and a great respect for each other, which takes no regard of differences in growing region, fame and size, age and sex, religion and property, is what makes the „Leithaberg” association one of the most interesting producer association.

Origin and soil:

Where is this mythical Leitha mountain? A question also frequently posed by Austria (perhaps not those from the Burgenland) wine lovers. Around 25 km south-east of Vienna, the Leithagebirge is the last part of the foothills of the Alps, before the Pannonian low plains start. It is the remnant of a mountainous stretch that used to join the Alps with the Carpathian mountains, and which has since subsided, the highest point is located at 484 metres above sea level. The Leithaberg stretches from north to south-west over a distance of around 35 kilometres. The relevant vineyards are all located on the east-facing gentle hillside slopes facing Lake Neusiedel. The vineyard area totals around 2000 ha, but one must bear in mind that not every square metre of this is also of Grand Cru standard.

The last foothills of the Alps before the Pannonian low plains

To be able to judge a matter one needs reliable data. It was thus logical that the Leithaberg association kicked off by performing very detailed soil analyses. The soils are mainly made up of original, primary rock, with mica-slate and gneis, while in some locations a deep layer of shell limestone (also known as Leitha limestone) dominates. There are also a few spots at which the original crystalline core of the old mountains breaks through on the surface, which makes it possible to produce interesting, vibrant and at the same time playful white wines. Around the town of Jois one also finds some sandy clay soils, which are particularly suitable for Blaufränkisch, the leading red variety in the Burgenland region. The soils warm up rapidly during the daytime, and store the heat, which is then again given off during the evening. The south-easterly aspect of the vineyards provides excellent exposure to light and lots of warmth during the day, while the altitude as well as the woods located above the vineyards ensure the nights are cooler, particularly in autumn. This ensures that in most years the grapes enjoy a long period in which to achieve optimum physiological ripeness.

The wines:

With these given natural factors, the production guidelines are almost self-evident, the respect for terroir, an overworked word that is invoked in an inflationary manner to suggest great value for every semi-industrially produced, faceless wine, if only its origin is more or less clear - in this region, it is exceptionally not purely a token expression.

Mica-slate gneis and Leitha limestone make up the greater part of the soils

The official statement is that „Leithaberg is something you have to taste”. This refers to the special spice, mineral note and fruit that are a result of the soils and of the exposition of the Leithaberg vineyards, as well as indigenous varieties as well as the authenticity provided by largely traditional winemaking techniques. High-class wines with good structure as well as vineyard-specific wines can be recognised as Leithaberg wines. Fresh, elegant wines with a good mineral structure and a unique, unmistakeable character are produced here. The prominent characteristics of these vineyard-specific wines are fruit and mineral character, based on the slate and limestone-rich soils of the Leithaberg range, which also comply with the motto „the best from indigenous varieties”, the comprehensive motto of the association. A wine from the Leithaberg may be a varietal wine or a blend. What is important is that it demonstrates an inner vibrancy and liveliness, it must be close-knit and complex, and need not reveal all its facets at the first taste, it is quite acceptable for the wine to be closed initially, and then to develop later.

The indigenous varieties Chardonnay ( „Feinburgunder”), Pinot Blanc and Neuburger are the key players on the Leithaberg. In addition, the Grüne Veltliner holds a special place, as the town of Donnerskirchen has a particular affinity for this variety. For red wines from the Leithaberg, Blaufränkisch is the leading variety, and must make up at least 50 per cent of any blends, thus dominating the taste profile. Other permitted red varieties include Zweigelt, Pinot Noir (Blauburgunder) and St. Laurent.

Internal blind tastings are conducted by the association to determine which wines comply with the stated criteria, and will be permitted to use the designation „Leithaberg”. A specific rating system with a 5-point scale is used that has been specially adapted to the local requirements. At least 85% of the association members must be present at the decisive final tasting. Only barrel samples are tasted, so that small corrections with regard to the composition of a blend or the selection of barrels can still be effected. This may appear to be a bit vague to extreme purists, but the system certainly makes good sense, and is used worldwide for the selection and blending of top-quality wines. Not every other panel is as open in discussing the method used.

The 15 members are well aware that the path they have chosen to tread with regard to the production of Leithaberg wines is both an old one and a new one, and they stand by that decision. No sweetish vanilla flavours that overwhelm the wine, and layers of smoky, spicy oak, combined with jammy fruit in order to achieve the highest possible globalised points rating are rigorously rejected. Be it a blend or a varietal wine, all that counts is that the wines be complex, typical for the region, have depth,  in short, they must be interesting and vibrant. All wine lovers still familiar with this type of wine will realise that such wines not only have a good maturation potential, in many cases they definitely need some time to develop. The producers have decided to use a burgundy bottle exclusively for their wines.

The members:
(in alphabetical order)

Bayer Erbhof, Donnerskirchen
Josef and Andrea Bayer have a vineyard area of 17 ha, with a wide range of varieties planted. The central points of the estate’s philosophy are tradition combined with modern, hygienic cellar technology.

Dr. Bichler, Purbach
A corporate lawyer who went ahead and fulfilled his dream of owning his own wine estate. Mainly Pinot varieties are grown on the limestone-rich and mica-slate soils, as well as Blaufränkisch. A long-lasting friendship and common oenology joins this estate with the Leberl estate.

Birgit Braunstein, Purbach
This active female winemaker produces mainly red wines from a total vineyard area of 22 ha. Each year her wines show more character, identity and vibrancy, factors that have resulted in top rankings at tastings in, among others, the USA and Great Britain.

Norbert Gmeiner, Purbach
He started as a wine producer late in life, but he is very successful at working his 20 ha of vineyards. The main focus is on red wines, made mainly from traditional regional varieties.

Toni Hartl, Reisenberg
A large part of the vineyard holdings of this estate are on the Leithaberg mountain, with the remainder located in the Thermenregion wine-growing region. Integrated, sustainable vineyard practices and a respect for nature characterise this wine producer. He treats his wines very individually in the cellar - and the quality is usually outstanding.

Andreas Liegenfeld, Donnerskirchen
The current president of the association has a particularly soft spot for the Grüner Veltliner variety. Here, too, the motto is that the best combination of tradition and modern technology will produce the optimum wine.

Josef Leberl, Großhöflein
A quality producer right from the word go, an essential figure in the battle to achieve recognition for top-quality Austrian wines. Gerald Leberl has long since followed in the footsteps of his already legendary father. A great deal of knowledge and passion guide him in running the estate.

Gabi & Richard Mariell, Großhöflein
Excellent vineyard sites, with 7,5 ha currently in production, a spotless cellar and careful handling of grapes are the keywords here, very frequently resulting in exceptionally good wines.

Hans Nehrer, St. Georgen
The 21 ha of vineyards owned by this estate are all located on south-facing slopes on the Leithaberg mountain range. There are different soil structures, which is reflected in cleanly made and quite different wines.

A & H Nittnaus, Gols
While the winery as well as a large portion of the vineyards are located in the commune of Gols, Nittnaus, who is one of the pioneers of quality in the region, also owns some of the most beautiful vineyards in the northern section of the Leithaberg range. Authenticity and a proximity to nature at the highest possible level of quality are the motto here.

Martin Pasler, Jois
A wine producer with a mind of his own, Pasler owns 13 ha of vineyards, with an almost equal split of red and white varieties. Martin Pasler has travelled far and wide, and some of this is evident in his wines.

Silvia Prieler, Schützen
Engelbert Prieler has found worthy successors in his children. His work in the vineyards remains the benchmark. The cellar is the unquestioned realm of Silvia Prieler. Her motto: to make wines with considerable potential for maturation, wines that are memorable”.

Thomas Schwarz, Purbach
Organic-biological vineyard practices are implemented in the 14 ha of vineyards. The main varieties planted are Grüner Veltliner and Chardonnay as well as Blaufränkisch. This is considered to be one of the leading estates in the region.

Leo Sommer, Donnerskirchen
This estate dates back to 1698. The vineyard area totals 22 ha, of which three quarters are planted with white varieties, and special attention is focussed on the Grüner Veltliner.

Erwin Tinhof, Eisenstadt
After first studying agriculture, followed by a stint of practical work at one of the most renowned wine estates in southern France, Erwin Tinhof began producing his own wine in 1990. The grapes are sourced from 11 ha of vineyards, with some holdings in the very best sites, the grapes are treated and processed gently to produce wines full of character.