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24.11.2011
Austria
Thermenregion
From Karl Bajano
Readers letter (so far 1)

The Thermenregion wine growing area has a total vineyard area of around 2,200 hectares, divided among some 1,250 wine growers and producers. It was created in 1985 when the regions Gumpoldskirchen and Bad Vöslau, which up to then had been independent, were merged. The former designation for both regions was Südbahn (southern train line, which runs from Vienna to here), a term still used today by older wine enthusiasts. The Thermenregion is the south-western section of the Vienna Basin, and is one of the warmest regions in Austria.

Gumpoldskirchen castle in the Thermenregion wine growing area (Photo: ÖWM/Armin Faber)
Viticulture here has a tradition going back more than 2,000 years, with two events sticking out as being particularly important for Austrian viticulture in general: On the one hand, the oldest documented wine estate in Austria, Freigut Thallern, which was founded in 1141 by the Cistercian monks of the Heiligenkreuz abbey, is located close to Gumpoldskirchen. After a long period of stagnation, the estate is poised for a new success story, especially since the management has been handed over to a consortium of some of the best wine producers in Austria. Also, and on the other hand, the German Order planted Pinot Noir in this region around 1760, a wise decision both in terms of propagating and cultivating vines. Also of considerable importance, from today’s point of view, was the decision by Robert Schlumberger to plant fairly large areas with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in Bad Vöslau around 1840. The wine produced from these grapes was considered to be one of the great wines of the world in the second half of the 19th century. The same can be said of the sparkling wine for which the company is still highly regarded today.

In terms of climate, the region benefits from the pannonian influence, which provides hot summers und predominantly dry autumns, as well as around 1,800 hours of sunshine each year. Light breezes in autumn ensure dew or the occasional raindrops are quickly dried from the grapes.

There are slopes and flat vineyards, with predominantly heavy soils such as clay, sand and clay, and brown soil with a high content of shell limestone. Below this are decomposed gravel and deep layers of alluvial soils, providing good drainage. The exception is the Steinfeld site close to Tattendorf, with rather poor gravel soils, here irrigation is permitted to compensate for the high permeability of the soil.

Rotgipfler (Photo: ÖWM/Armin Faber)
The white grape varieties Zierfandler (Spätrot) and Rotgipfler are typical for the region, the blends of these grapes, with the name “Spätrot-Rotgipfler” have a centuries-old tradition, especially in the form of sweet wines. Both these varieties are grown here on an area of around 400 hectares, with very small exceptions they are found nowhere else in the world. By the way, the Zierfandler is not related in any way to Zinfandel in the USA. Another variety found traditionally in this region is the Neuburger, which has become a rarity in other regions. As far as the red varieties are concerned, the Blauer Portugieser still heads up the list in terms of area planted, followed by Zweigelt, the signature variety Saint Laurent, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. After the Second World War, this region was the favoured area to which the Viennese travelled for a glass of wine in one of the many wine bars provided by producers.

As a result, the production of high-quality wines played only a minor role right up to the late 1980’s. When the introduction of restrictive limits on blood alcohol levels while driving caused large segments of the population to change their drinking habits, it seemed for a while the region would disappear into insignificance. This changed, however, when a few producers turned the boat around, and started producing high-quality Saint Laurent, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon as well as Zierfandler, Rotgipfler and Chardonnay in the many high-potential sites available.

The modern history of viticulture in the Thermenregion area was and still is being written by a small number of outstanding wine producers, of which the best-known are Reinisch, Stadlmann, Alphart, Aumann, Piriwe and the nine members of the „Die Burgundermacher“ association.

All producers from the Thermenregion area in the wine guide


Karl Bajano

Readers letter (so far 1)

 

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