Modern oenologists, craggy types, unwavering traditionalists: the spectrum of winemakers to be found on Cyprus is huge. Around 10.000 families deliver their grapes exclusively to the largest winery, the Sodap cooperative. Many others supply their crops to the major producers such as KEO, LOEL and ETKO, the latter was founded in 1844, and is the oldest wine-producing company. Many producers still make wine themselves, mainly in traditional styles, occasionally daring to show some modernisation. And an increasing number of producers, many of them with international training, and certainly all of them with a great deal of enthusiasm, are promoting the traditional grape varieties of the island with the same kind of energy as their efforts to have their island return to the list of internationally respected wine growing regions.

The old clay vessels are no longer used (Photo: Zenon Winery)

Slowly but surely: The wine revolution on Cyprus won’t be rushed

The island in the Eastern Mediterranean, visited by many cultural tourists and wine lovers, is by no means a young wine producing country, quite the contrary, with evidence of wine growing on the island as early as 3.000 B.C. In fact, it is considered to be the cradle of the wine industry in the entire Mediterranean region..An increasing number of wines is being produced using state-of-the-art equipment, great winemaking knowledge and even greater passion. At this stage, they are hardly known at an international level, apart from the pioneering work of a few importers.

That used to be quite different, even in Germany: „We are drinking Cyprian wine and kissing beautiful girls“, says Fiesco in Friedrich Schiller’s tragedy „The Conspiracy of Fiesco“, written in 1782. Presumably the wine-loving poet was thinking of a bottle of the famous dessert wine „Commandaria“, which was already highly regarded in the 12th century: at the command of the Knights Templar, who had established themselves in the Kolossi castle close to Limassol, the local residents were forced to hand over their wine to the commander of the castle, and it became known as „Commandaria“. This wine, made from sun-dried, raisined grapes, symbolized Cyprian wine for many centuries. Under a succession of alternating political regimes – first the Greeks and the Romans, later crusaders, Turks and the British, the wine culture was neglected. Increasingly, large shares of the production were exported to Great Britain, Germany and particularly the Soviet Union as well as other members of the Warsaw Pact as basic bulk wines, and as a cheap replacement for sherry: this explains the penchant of early Russian tourists for this holiday island, but also explains the poor image Aphrodite’s home island developed as a producer of rather uninspiring wines for the masses. It was only once the Soviet Union, for long the main export market, fell away that the wine industry was modernised.

Vineyards as far as the eye can see

Since then, hundreds of hectares of vineyard have been newly established, dozens of wine estates have been established, the use of clay vessels for maturation has been abandoned, and cellars have been equipped with the latest technology, and in recent years barriques have become fashionable for maturation. While the lion’s share of grapes is sourced from the Tróodos mountains in the south, and is still processed by the „Big Four“, some 50 wine producers have started to show the kind of quality possible on the island. Modern wine culture has come to Cyprus, but the revolution on the home island of Aphrodite, the goddess of love, refuses to be rushed. A tour of around 20 representative wineries on the island, as it were in the footsteps of Aphrodite, reveals this.

The island’s West – north of Pafos

Theodoros Ficardos

On the south coast, south-east of the harbour city of Pafos, in the extreme west of the island, Aphrodite is purported to have come out of the water at the Pétra toú Romioú rock formation. If the goddess of love were to go in search of good wine from this beautiful bay, she would be successful after a short trip to Mesogi, six kilometres to the north of Pafos. The Ficardos estate there, owned by former restaurateur Theodoros Ficardos is a typical example of the wine revolution in Cyprus.

Ficardos: Fast track to success

It started as a modest hobby in 1988, and led to the establishment of a wine estate two years later, today this is one of the largest regional producers, although it still has its main market in the old district town. At the same time, Ficardos is one of the few producers who does not have his own vineyards: like many others, he buys in grapes from other growers. The shining star in his large range is the Rosé Valentina. This is a fruit-driven, off-dry blend of 95% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5 % Mataro – better known as – its refreshing strawberry aromas make it clear why the market share of rosé wines has increased consistently in recent years. Another impressive wine is his red „Ravanti“, produced from the indigenous Mataro grape, with dark autumn fruit, pepper and bell pepper notes, a voluptuous, full-bodied wine. The most widely planted white variety in Cyprus, the Xynisteri, is partnered with a 20% share of Semillon in his „Amalthia“ blend. This undergoes reductive processes in stainless steel tanks, an aromatic and spicy wine, with prominent acidity and notes of apricots, a pleasant fruity and well-made day for sophisticated everyday drinking.

Vasilikon: Modern craftsmanship

Yiannis Kyriakides

Even further to the northwest, above Pafos in Kathikas, the Vasilikon Winery, owned by brothers Yiannis and Eracles Kyriakides, sets out to reconcile tradition, regionality and modern styles. As did his father before him, Yiannis Kyriakides loves his job as a wine producer, which to him means avoiding interchangeable, mass-produced wine styles. „In the past, what we sold were exclusively poor wines“, admits Yannis without hesitation; now there is an increasing number of high-quality products available, a category he, too, has focused on. His own vineyards, which cover no less than 25 hectares, are planted with what is currently the widest range of indigenous grape varieties on Cyprus, which could lead one to believe Kyriakides is particularly fond of experimenting, and that his range of wines must be huge and unmanageable. However, the rare indigenous varieties such as the white Morokanella are merely being tested on behalf of the department of agriculture, The real production area, including an additional 12 hectares currently being prepared for planting, are dedicated to the better-known indigenous as well as international varieties: Xynisteri, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Maratheftiko and Mataro.

Wine production is concentrated on a few lines: the estate is known for its aromatic Agios Onoufrios, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, with the must being fermented „like Beaujolais Nouveau“, and without oak. „We perform a microfermentation with whole bunches, and slowly warm this up from 14°-16°C to 20°C, that is a procedure we have under control“. Even more impressive is his Cabernet Sauvignon „Methy“ of the 2001 vintage, this was matured in barrel for 16 months, followed by four years in bottle, and now exudes aromas of herbs and spices. The success of this winery, which was only founded in 1993, but is already regarded as one of the “traditional” wineries, can be seen in the expansion plans – in a few months, a new wine bar, museum, seminar and tasting rooms will contribute to the future development of the winery owned by the Kyriakides brothers.

Sodap: The volume is sufficient, now we are working on the quality

Alexis Machuca

The industrial counterpart to Vasilikons artisanal operation can be found just ten kilometres to the east in Stroumpi: the Kamanterena Winery – named after the region – is the largest of the Big Four operations (ETKO, KEO, LOEL and SODAP) on the island. The cooperative was founded in Pafos in 1947 under the name of SODAP, and moved to its new production centre in the mountains of the Pafos district five year ago, in order to be able to process the huge volume of grapes, supplied by 10.000 member families in 144 wine-producing communes. Chief winemaker Alexis Machuca, who hails from Venezuela, sees the spectrum of material sourced from so many contract growers not as a problem, but rather as an opportunity, allowing him to produce sophisticated white wines from different qualities of grapes – such as a refreshing Riesling-Xynisteri blend that has won several awards.

The largest exporter of wine in the country produces around 4 million bottles annually – mainly from the red varieties Mavro, Maratheftiko and Cabernet Sauvignon as well as from the white varieties Xynisteri, Spourtiko and the relatively rare Giannoudi. Machuca employs the latest technology in the cellar: large fermenters allow the must to be mixed with the pomace and carbon dioxide of fermentation on a continuous basis, without requiring mechanical influences or any outside energy. New processes are also used in trial runs with Shiraz: the passionate winemaker enthusiastically shows off barrel samples of a wine of which the must was first cooled down to 8°C for five days, then warmed up for five days to 24°C. On tasting, there certainly is a difference in the wine’s quality: rounder, softer and more intense, with deeper colour and fewer green tannins. In any case, Machuca’s aim is to establish his own style in the dynamic Cypriot wine market: „we now have sufficient quantity, and can concentrate fully on our quality.“

Northeast of Pafos

Tsangarides: Shooting star with organic ambitions

Angelos Tsangarides

The family of Angelos Tsangarides can look back on a tradition of growing wine in the village of Lemona in the district of Pafos that goes back more than a century. Nevertheless, this dynamic owner is a shooting star: no sooner had the new buildings of the Tsangarides Winery been completed in the hills above Pafos when his first new vintage produced there in 2005 won two gold medals at the Cyprus national wine competition in 2007. The red Mataro shows a deep bouquet of aromas, round and soft: a shining example of a domesticated Mourvèdre. Highly aromatic, with fruit and a silky texture, the second award winner is also impressive, a Cabernet Sauvignon. His Xynisteri table wine is pleasant with refreshing citrus and grapefruit notes, as is his elegant fruity blend of Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon und Mataro, matured in stainless steel, and described by Tsangarides as „typical Cypriot“.

In spite of his success, Angelos Tsangarides plans to stick with his annual production of around 50.000 bottles, sourced from 10 ha of own vineyards: I don’t want to grow any larger“, he states philosophically. Xynisteri and Shiraz grapes are bought in, the Cabernet Sauvignon is grown on a leased vineyard. What is more important to him is the organic principles implemented in his vineyards, this process is ongoing, and should be completed in three years time. All newly planted vineyards will no longer be worked with conventional methods, Chardonnay and Mataro are already being grown organically. Even the energy required for temperature-controlled fermentation will be supplied by solar panels soon. „Organic is simply my way of life“, explains Angelos Tsangarides: „I am convinced organic wines have a future in Cyprus, and there is very little by way of competition.“

Kolios: Self-taught nature lover

Marios Kolios

Marios Kolios frequently enjoys the view from the large windows of his wine estate, and there is lots to see: the passionate wine maker and nature lover built the Kolios Winery together with an attached restaurant, in Statos-Agios Fotios, the highest location in the Pafos region, around five years ago, its restrained natural stone architecture allows it to blend harmoniously into the surroundings, as few other wineries do. Standing at an altitude of 800 metres above sea level, the view is clear for miles around. Here the self taught wine maker - „I developed everything myself, without any expert help“ – produces powerful Cabernet Sauvignon, harmonious Maratheftiko and a full-bodied, well balanced blend of Mavro and Maratheftiko called „Agios Fotios“ in what is now one of the largest regional wineries. While the area is visibly dry, Kolios sees no need for specific irrigation. In his barrel cellar, he points to a damp wall through which some fine roots have grown: “The chalky soils stores sufficient water for the vines”, explains the self-contained Marios Kolios. But times have not always been so tranquil for him: until 1999, he was a master butcher, with a shop in Pafos, and grew grapes only as a hobby.

When a supermarket opened its doors next to his butchery, and his customers stayed away, he switched his profession in the same year to his previous hobby, and started building a winery together with his wife. A year after he had left, his former, and many more new customers, started returning to the family butchery, which was still in business, dissatisfied with the quality of the meat in the supermarket, he recounts with a smile and a shake of his head. He produces around 300.000 bottles of wine annually, sourced from around 10 ha of own vineyards, plus bought-in grapes, in addition he sells wine in bulk, and in bag-in-box form. He maintains his own distribution, and will deliver a case of wine to even the most remote private household. There are good signs that this wine success story, which is coupled with a successful service concept, will be continued – one of the sons of Marios Kolios plans to study viticulture.

Avacas: High altitude potential

Yiannakis Efstathiou

The Avacas wine estate newly built in 2009 by Yiannakis Efstathiou, is also to be found in Statos-Agios Fotios. This friendly and reticent wine maker has been producing wine for more than 20 years, but it is only in his new premises that Efstathiou now has enough space to produce and store his wine, including a tasting room, a café and a small museum, which are still under construction. His own vineyards. With an area of 8 ha, are mainly planted with Maratheftiko and Ophtalmo; he buys in top-quality Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache and Xynisteri from contract growers, these make up the lion’s share both in volume terms and financially. Of the total production of around 200.000 litres, around half is sold in bulk, while 120.000 bottles are sold to supermarkets, restaurants and hotels. Around 80% of his red grapes are melded into a rare blend of Maratheftiko, Mataro, Ophtalmo and Mavro.

Worth a mention among his red wines is his off-dry „Cornelious Medium Sweet“, dominated by Maratheftiko, with prominent notes of malt, syrup and honey. A refreshing basic wine is the white blend of Xynisteri and small portions of Spourtiko and Morocanella. „It is all not completed yet“, Efstathiou apologizes, even when he eventually completes work on his estate, he does not plan to spend all his time on vinous matters: he is also deeply involved in caring for physically and mentally handicapped children in Cyprus , and ist he deputy chairman of a charity association „just on the side“.

Vouni Panagia: A passion for wine high up in the mountains

Andreas Kyriakides

The Vouni Panagia estate owned by Andreas Kyriakides is located higher than any other vineyard in the Pafos region, on the summits of the Tróodos mountains. After working for many years as an official in the viticultural department of the ministry of agriculture, he has realized his dream at an altitude of 850 metres, located just below his own vineyards, which are located at altitudes of 900 to 1150 metres: to produce individualistic wines in specific, out-of-the way vineyards, and then to nurture these in a state of the art cellar in a puristic architectural setting, combined with examples of typical Cypriot food. What is today a harmonious complex of buildings, consisting of a restaurant, production area, tasting and seminar rooms, started off in 1987 with a manual press in a garage winery, in which up to 80.000 bottles were produced and filled annually. Today the production volume is closer to half a million bottles, wines that deserve a special mention are the elegant, fruity Maratheftiko „Barba Yannis“, the full-bodied, barrel-matured “Kannavera“ blend of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon as well as the superbly aromatic white Spourtiko.

Further improvements in quality can be expected in the future: Kyriakides was so disappointed with the results produced by the indigenous red variety Mavro that he completely uprooted all the vines of this variety from his 20 hectares of own vineyards, and replaced them with Xynisteri, Maratheftiko and Spourtiko vines. He is part of the small minority of wine producers who do not implement bush vines, preferring straight rows of vertically trained vines. These produce „primarily better quality, they are easier to work, and given the frequent periods of drought they provide a better availability of water, in combination with the right pruning methods“. Until the newly planted vines start to bear fruit, he continues to purchase grapes from contract growers, seeking the best quality possible on these lean soils, which are nevertheless sufficiently fertile for vines. „This island is blessed by God, but cursed by history“, is one of the sayings of Andreas Kyriakides, who prefers to view the development of the island as well as the bustle of the cities “from far above”. He also has a relaxed, even laconic attitude to the international market for his wines, such as the German market: „We are open to discussions with importers, provided the market accepts our prices“.

Ezousa: Critic and development aid worker

Michalis Constantinides with apprentice

If you listen to Michalis Constantinides of the Ezousa winery in the small village of Kannaviou describing the state of the wine industry in Cyprus, you will recognize the words of a business and marketing graduate of the University for Food and Beverage Technology in Athens: „I want to create a really strong brand of Cypriot wine, as we are still far from presenting a common Cypriot identity in our wine culture“. In the international wine market, the situation remains that Cypriot wine „is basically unknown, and where it is known, it does not have a good image“. Constantinides established his winery on the Ezousa river in 2003, and since then has been doing his best to improve that image.

Drawing on the production of 4 ha of own vineyards, as well as on the grape material of ten contracted growers, the visionary winemaker has created more than just outstanding red and white wines. His full-bodied Maratheftiko is characterised by fruit, elegance and an unusually firm tannin structure, the Xynisteri – which accounts for 50% of the vineyard area – is a refreshing wine with concentrated texture and aromas. The version of which ten percent are matured in used barriques adds citrus notes and noticeable tannins to the spectrum of flavours. As if that were not enough, Constantinides is also a pioneer of rosé production, with a salmon-coloured Maratheftiko, enjoy its crisp acidity well chilled to gain an impression of the refreshing and tasty aromatic possibilities inherent in the Maratheftiko grape.

Chrysorrogiátissas Monastery: Heritage of almost three centuries of winemaking tradition

You can experience the remote, quiet life of a monastic world in the inner courtyard of the Iera Moni Chrysorrogitissas monastery, located at an altitude of 830 metres in Panagiá. Things can also be unexpectedly noisy and happy when festivals such as a rare visit by the bishop are celebrated, and visitors to the monastery can then enjoy the experience of enjoying numerous examples of Caypriot cuisine, seated at noisy tables in the colourfully decorated dining room, together with monks, abbots and their relatives. Also available is wine produced at the monastery, such as the white Xynisteri „Titus Andronicos“, which has atypically soft, restrained acidity, with the aromas of preserved yellow fruit such as peaches and apricots. The flagship wine of the monastery is the full-bodied „Agios Elias“, a blend of Mavro, Maratheftiko and the Opthalmo grape, an indigenous variety rare on the island, with aromas of dark forest fruit, animal notes and a mature acid structure, allowing it to match even the most hearty roast of lamb served in the monastery kitchen and in the restaurant outside. When the abbot of the monastery, Dionysios, a venerable sage with a flowing white beard, reminisces with a great sense of humour on the rich and varied history of the monastery, it quickly becomes clear that the monastery has a special position in the history of viticulture on Cyprus.

Entrance to the chapel at the Chrysorrogíátissas monastery

The monastery was founded in 1152, with wine production documented as early as 1725. Historic implements in the wine cellar serve as a reminder of how much work was involved in producing wine at the monastery, including a 700-litre clay jar („Pitharis“) dating from 1791, of a type used by many wineries until just a few decades ago to ferment the must. After several attempts to revive wine productions in the 1930’s, it was abbot Dionysos who started once again to produce own wines at the monastery in 1982: oenologists and agricultural experts from France and Canada had recommended this move. When the monastery purchased its first mechanical press in order to produce the 1982 vintage, it was the first producer, apart from the major companies, to invest in its own vineyards. The demand had always been there, says the abbot with a smile: after all, wine is „even today a ritual part of the church service. When the believer has cleansed and elevated his conscience and soul, he is served sweet wine.“ A decision was taken in 1999 to move the winery by 500 metres, as the technical innovations required would have changed the character of the monastery too drastically. Oenologist Andreas Fetas, who has a share in the winery, has been looking after the continuation of the old wine tradition since then. Today, the 20 hectares of own vineyards produce around 150.000 bottles of wine from both local (Mavro, Maratheftiko, Xynisteri) and international varieties (Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Merlot), including an organic Riesling.

Vineyards in the Tróodos mountains

Northwest of Limassol

To the northwest of Limassol, the lively port city located centrally on the south coast of Cyprus, a drive of about 25 kilometres through the southern foothills of the Tróodos mountains will take you to the centre of Cypriot wine production. Numerous traditional as well as a few newly established wineries can be found spotted around the picturesque wine village of Ómodos.

Nicolaides: The art is not only on the label

Nicos Nicolaides

In the middle between Pafos and Limassol, in the wine village of Anogyra, you will find the estate owned by Nicos Nicolaides. He is a graduate of the renowned viticultural school at Montpellier in France. This goal-directed winemaker has succeeded in producing high-quality wines on the family estate, where he has taken over as the third generation to run the winery, which was established in 1986. This required a major leap: his father and uncle had still employed the 700-litre clay jars for fermentations. The renewal began with the planting of new varieties, followed by the installation of stainless steel tanks, cooling systems and a modern bottling line in the cellar. The winery currently operates around 4 hectares of vineyards at an altitude of around 800 metres. Nicos Nicolaides has found his own style. His Xynisteri is less fruity than usual, it has more acidity and a stronger mineral component. His red blend of Mourvèdre, Grenache and Mataro is not subjected to oak treatment, lest the inherently prominent tannins hide the fruit. The Maratheftiko spends a long time fermenting on the lees, followed by 13 months in barrel, and simply exudes overwhelming animal aromas such as mocha, malt, bacon and rum punch. Nicolaides demonstrates how he attempts to combine the inspiration for his unconventional wine profiles with modern production methods in his unusual label design for his dry white and red wines: they depict paintings by the English artist John Corbidge, who spent many years living on Cyprus, drawing inspiration for his work not only from the landscape, but also from the Turkish occupation of the northern section of the island. According to Nico Nicolaides, the combination of inspiration, passion and knowledge can only lead to quality wines.

Zambartas: Moderniser with Australian connections

Marcos Zambartas

“The wines of Cyprus go well with our oil-driven cuisine”, enthuses Marcos Zambartas, the 29-year-old owner of the Zambartas Wineries in Limassol. Looking at his cleanly made wines, brilliantly fresh with lively acidity, that makes a lot of sense. This gregarious and open-minded winemaker stresses that he favours an uncomplicated marriage of the Old World and the New, of local and international grape varieties, which he mostly uses in blends to express their common aromatic profile. His modern wine style is clearly influenced by his wide spectrum of winemaking experience, starting off with a chemistry degree in London, followed by a winemaking degree in Adelaide, and then work experience in New Zealand and Australia, which ended only a year ago.

While working on his first vintage in 2008, Marcos Zambartas recalls smilingly „there were always discussions with my father, sometimes also a battle against my father“. The differences seem to have had a positive outcome: on only three hectares of vineyard, of which one hectare is owned by the family, with vines up to 75 years old, Zambartas manages to produce among the cleanest, most refreshing white wines on Cyprus. The tropical aromas of Sémillon coupled with the lemony notes of Xynisteri provide complexity and full-bodied aromas in his blends. Depending on the proportion of Sémillon used, the wines, which should always be drunk young, are sometimes light and fruity, and sometimes show prominent acidity and mineral notes. His rosé is matured in stainless steel, fresh with ripe fruit and very refreshing, is something of a benchmark for modern rosé wines on Cyprus. Of his red wines we particularly liked the Lefkada, a variety introduced 80 years ago, which has adapted well to the Cypriot soils. Whether on its own, or in blends with Shiraz or Cabernet Franc, it impresses with a firm acid structure and powerful aromas. His annual production of 25.000 bottles is regularly sold out, nevertheless, he does not want to grow too quickly: the winery was only completed in 2008, and in the long term he sees the limit of his production at around 50.000 bottles.

Gaia Oinotechniki: the organic pioneer

Ioanna Panagiotou

Ioanna Panagiotou, owner of what is so far the only organic wine estate on Cyprus, Gaia Oinotechniki, is so petite and dainty that it is easy to overlook her determination at first sight. “Health and quality” were the cornerstones of her „organic philosophy“ right from the beginning, says the winemaker, who is now 44 years old, and took over the winery in 1988, at the tender age of 23. There are 5 hectares of own vineyards at an altitude of 600 metres, here she grows the Mavro grape, which is slightly better suited to organic conditions, as well as the „slightly more difficult to handle“ varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Carignan. She buys in Xynisteri grapes from the region around Pafos, and organically grown Maratheftiko from the high-altitude slopes around the village of Kyperounda. As the yields are even lower than the already low average for Cyprus, Ioanna Panagiotou is dependent on buying in grapes from contract growers. While there is an increasing number of these, costs are also rising: the price of 80 Eurocents for a kilogramme of organically grown grapes is a quarter higher than that for conventionally produced grapes.

Ioanna Panagiotou expresses her individual organic producer profile in two wines, currently still conventionally produced, as well as in a range of four organic wines. Of these we particularly liked the dry rosé Grenache „Oenanthi“ – a real aromatic mouthful with strawberries and raspberries, but still light-bodied – as well as the elegant Cabernet Sauvignon „Kylix“, reminiscent of dark berries and coffee. This translates as the “tasting bowl”, could be filled quite frequently with this wine. She takes a lot of time over her red wines in any case: they are generally released onto the market only after two to two-and-a-half years. Her political engagement is also an expression of her determined organic profile – she is the secretary-general of the Green party on Cyprus, and is the only representative of this party in the 56-member parliament in Nicosia.

Vasa: Quality fanatic firmly rooted in the soil

Pambos Argyrides

The Vasa winery located in the small village of Vasa Koilaniou, 25 kilometres from Limassol, also holds a special place among the avantgarde of Cypriot winemakers. Owner Pambos Argyrides is currently the only wine maker in Cyprus to work exclusively his own vineyards – he simply does not want to subject himself to the uncertainties and risks inherent in using leased vineyards. He is an internationally successful, well-travelled businessman, who has retained strong roots in his home country, a fanatic for high quality who respects traditions. In his completely restored house, which is 200 years old, he points out a clay jar used for fermentation, dating back to 1873: „We worked with this until 1995“, says Argyrides. Today, the grapes sourced from his 11 hectares of vineyards produce around 30.000 bottles of wine annually, using ultra-modern stainless steel tanks, using gravity feed to move the must around, with all wines being matured in barriques of French Alliers and Nevers oak after fermentation. „We require a lot of experience and know-how, both for the vines and in the cellar.“ In the past, in the last 50 years or so, things were different: The monopoly of the Big Four did not permit any competition”. Now the competition has arrived, but with it has come the readiness to learn from the major innovators in Cypriot wine culture, to take their advice and benefit from their knowledge.

The renowned wine maker and consultant Sophocles Vlassides is in charge of the cellar at the Vasa winery, producing wines of a style that need not shy away from any international comparison, as is evidenced by the extensive exports to the USA, Great Britain and Switzerland. The wines – an elegant but also full-bodied Mataro, a harmonious Maratheftiko, the Cabernet Sauvignon with ist explosive fruit or the complex Mourvèdre – all aged in barriques for 12 to 18 months – are no sold to supermarkets, but only to selected wine merchants and leading hotels. It comes as no surprise that Pambos Argyrides also wants to keep a tight control over distribution – „so we have established a separate company to handle sales in Cyprus.“

Vlassides: Guiding light with an international flavour

Sophocles Vlassides

The wine revolution on Cyprus is perhaps most closely associated with winemaker Sophocles Vlassides. The openness for new trends was apparently in the family genes: the father of this exceptional winemaker had started planting his vineyards with international varieties in the 1970’s, “for experimental reasons”. After studying chemistry in London and winemaking at the renowned Davis campus of the University of California, Vlassides started working in his small home village of Kilani in 1998, where wine is produced in the mountains, and which is characterized by a flight of young people moving to the cities. Right from the beginning, Sophocles Vlassides imported new viticultural ideas he had encountered overseas. He introduced the use of oak barrels for the maturation of red wines, and campaigned successfully with many of his colleagues to pay much more attention to the work in the vineyards: systematic irrigation is used in the long periods of drought, and canopy management is implemented. „The quality of the grapes must be as high as possible“, emphasizes Vlassides, to provide the highest possible base quality for the production of high-quality wines in the cellar. His success at this is impressive, for instance in his unfiltered, powerful and toasty Maratheftiko or in the silky texture of his Shiraz, which has coffee notes and peppery aromas.

An example of his Californian training can be found in his Cabernet Sauvignon, which is matured in barrel for 14 months, and has prominent cassis and spicy flavours, and a long finish: „It is very difficult to achieve phenolic ripeness here“, explains Vlassides, „the vines have to be pruned by a specially trained team. I showed them how to do it, and now they can perform the task“. His international style is reflected in his varietal mix: Shiraz makes up 50% of the vineyard area, the remainder is made up of around 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Xynisteri as well as Merlot and a few minor varieties such as Cabernet Franc. Vlassides confirms the indigenous Xynisteri vine has good potential for very fresh, young wines, but says the variety is permanently handicapped by a “five Euro image”, he says his operation is simply too small for this type of wine. He says such wines are “OK” for the market in Cyprus, but he sees the need to finance his business mainly via his Shiraz, which accounts for around 20.000 of his total annual production of 50.000 bottles. Sophocles Vlassides is simply bursting with ideas, and appears to be vibrating with impatience, so keen is he to implement his knowledge and love of experimenting for the benefit of the wine industry on Cyprus. For the moment, however, his main concern is to consolidate the currently 25 locations over which his 12 hectares of vineyard are spread, in order to make the vineyard work more manageable in future.

Ayia Mavri: The basic idea came from Austria

Yiannoula Ioannidou and Dr. Ioannis Ioannides

Ioannis Ioannides and Yiannoula Ioannidou had their initial experience with wine, which eventually led them to a career in this field, not on Cyprus, but on a wine trip to the Burgenland region in Austria 30 years ago: the sight of „Buschenschänken“, where small wine estates hang up a few branches outside the door to draw attention to their small wine bars, immediately convinced the current owners of the Ayia Mavri estate .Surely it must be possible to do something similar in Cyprus, to indulge in your love for wine professionally, to produce regional wine, like your neighbours, in your home village of Kilani, and to sell the wine yourself. Only five years later, the estate started bottling its own wines, with the lion’s share of the work falling on the shoulders of self-taught Yiannoula Ioannidou – her husband Ioannis Ioannides is still today busy as the head of a polyclinic in Limassol, and specialist for cardiovascular diseases. The vineyard area is now 4.5 hectares, with an annual production of around 50.000 bottles.

The wines of Ayia Mavri – the name is derived from the neighbouring chapel of Hagia Mavri, which dates back to the 12th century – quickly found a large number of customers. Wines we liked include the „Esperino“ (evening mass) blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, fully-bodied and peppery, as well as a white blend of Xynisteri and Muscat, an irresistible, charming off-dry aperitif with an aroma of yellow plums. The light-bodied, elegant Xynisteri is refreshing, and should be drunk young. A real bombshell at Ayia Mavri is the sweet botrytised Moscato: in recent years, this opulently aromatic dessert wine with its harmonious balance of sweetness and acidity has won no less than three gold medals, in Greece, Cyprus and France. When visiting the friendly owners at Ayia Mavri, combine this with a walk around the picturesque village of Kilani, which is in danger of becoming a ghost town: this was once the capital of the wine region to the east of Ómodos – of the former 2000 inhabitants, only around 250 remain today.

The centre of wine culture: the wine village of Ómodos

Linos: From Secret Service to a new career in wine

Erodotos Erodotou

This is a story that could only be written on Cyprus: 1974, the year Turkey occupied the northern part of the island, secret service man Erodotos Erodotou fled, together with his wife, from the northern to the southern section, back to the place where he was born, Ómodos. Years later, his wife pleaded with him to consider wine as a profession. Erodotou, who had been a part-time wine grower, agreed, and in 1988 he established the Linos winery, at an altitude of 900 metres. Today he owns 12 hectares of vineyards, and buys in grapes from another 10 hectares, producing around 200.000 bottles of wine annually. Cellar door sales account for the lion’s share of turnover, small amounts are sold via supermarkets. At this altitude, varieties such as the white Sultanina tend to be rather pale, but this unconventional and unusual late starter manages to produce a full-bodied blend called “Linos”, that’s ancient Greek for “wine press”, combining the prominent acidity of Xynisteri with the aromas of Riesling, which fares very well at this altitude.

Day-night temperature differences of 10 to 12 degrees Celsius mean many grapes cannot ripen fully, they are then kept on the vine until late autumn, and sold as table grapes. Whatever is not picked is left hanging for guests, who come to the vineyards each year on the 4th of December, the festival of Saint Barbara, to pick grapes. On the other hand, the Mavro grape has such an affinity for the chalky soils and the temperature differences that it develops a light, fruity style, and is popular among other wine producers, who buy the wine for blending with their own wines. There is one rule in the cellar that Erodotou, who looks more like a waggish representative of an old-style winemaker than a secretive member of the secret service:”I am completely opposed to the use of oak, it simply falsifies the taste of a wine “.

Zenon: Tradition and an own mind

Zenon Zenonos

Zenon Zenonos not only holds extremely traditional views, he also speaks his own mind: for many years, as a producer and grape grower, he had to wait patiently after the harvest before he could sell his grapes to major producers. That came to an end in 1988: that is when he built his modern Zenon winery at an altitude of 900 metres, on the main road to Ómodos. Now he produces his own wines from 15 hectares of own vineyards and around one-and-a-half hectares of leased vineyards, around 50.000 bottles annually. Zenonos is self-taught, and was formerly regularly employed as a consultant by the government, which respected his knowledge, whereas now he can do whatever comes to his individualistic mind in terms of viti- and viniculture. Thus, he staunchly sticks with the indigenous Mavro grape, using it as a base for all his red blends, which are made in dry and off-dry styles, as is the white Xynisteri, both provide high extract and full aromatics. Fermentation temperature for the reds is never allowed to exceed 25 degrees, as he feels this would otherwise destroy the aromas. The blend of Shiraz and Maratheftiko provides impressive fruit and substance, with firm acidity, but well-balanced. Even after bottling, Zenon Zenonos applies special procedures to his products: the bottles are left to stand for three days after bottling, and are then cooled down to their storage temperature of 15° at a relative humidity of 70%. In addition, Zenonos takes a calculated risk in picking his white varieties as late as October, he is convinced they will then give “more alcohol, acidity and aromas”.

While the winery is otherwise extremely modern, the memories of the old family practices in the winery remain present: in the sales room, he likes showing off the 700-litre clay container used in the past for fermenting must, this was hand-made by his grandmother, and represented the only dowry she had. This and many similar containers were in use at the winery until the new complex was completed in 1998: the must was filled into the huge jug, then closed off with a marble slab held in place with plaster, this was left to stand for 12 days, then baskets were used to clarify the wine. The tradition is also symbolized by the pomace-based spirit Zivania, for whose production only the Big Four, the Kýkko monastery and Zenon hold licences.

Olympus: combining opposites successfully

Olvia Haggipavlou and Themis Themistocleous

The Olympus winery was founded in Órmodos in 1992, as a second branch office for the owners, ETKO, the oldest winery in Cyprus, established in 1844 and still in operation in Limassol. Ever since the completion of the new cellar building in 2007, an attempt is underway to successfully combine the opposite poles of large volumes and high quality. The ETKO holding company, owned by Antonis Haggipavlou, was successful for decades with the export of bulk wines and cheap bottled wines, mainly to the former Soviet Union. Today, Olympus weighs in as a big player, with 50 hectares of own vineyards, and is successful not only in the domestic market, but also has an export share of 50%, with sales going to Sweden, Great Britain and Australia, as well as to Kenya and Uganda. The state-of-the-art winery has an annual capacity of around three quarters of a million bottles. The technical director, Themis Themistocleous, uses only Xynisteri and Maratheftiko of the indigenous varieties; in addition, the dessert wine Commandaria is produced. However, sales of sweet wines are constantly on the decline, explains export manager Olvia Haggipavlou.

In the international market, Olympus wants to make a breakthrough based on the „cosmopolitan“ varieties Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. A holding of two hectares of organically grown Merlot gives Olympus a place among the small but select group of organic wine pioneers in Cyprus. Olvia Haggipavlou confirms the Olympus products are “not compatible” with wines in the lower shelves of supermarkets. That would not be the right setting for the wines of this up-and-coming producer: the Cabernet Sauvignon rosé impresses with fruity aromas, finesse and a persistent flavor, the „Keller 62“ blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, Mataro, Grenache and Carignan shows pleasant blackberry and cassis notes. A lovely example of the new style is a full-bodied, fruity Merlot, matured in new barriques for four months.

Kyperounda: Dynamic wine-making company at high altitudes

Minas Mina

The Kyperounda winery is located in the village of Kyperounda in the central Tróodos mountains, and was considered to be one of the leading producers in Cyprus within a few years of its establishment in 1998. The ownership structure is but one of the unusual features here: 70% of shares are held by the Cypriot drinks company Photo Photiades Group, the remaining 30% are held by a total of 40 wine growers in the Kyperounda region. However, their crops are bought in only on a case-by-case basis, and only after careful quality control and selection procedures. In any case, most of the growers produce the red Mavro grape, which oenologist Minas Mina, one of the most successful wine makers in Cyprus, has a low opinion: „thin skins, loads of juice, no extract, those are table grapes“. The high-altitude vineyards – the winery lies at 1140 metres, with vineyards at altitudes of 1200 to 1500 metres, are another feature: „Apart from a few tiny parcels of vineyard on the Canaries, we have the highest vineyards in Europe“, says Minas Mina. As the estate currently has only 4 hectares of vineyards, and 18 hectares of leased land have only recently been planted with Xynisteri, most of the grapes required for the annual production of 300.000 bottles are sourced from three different regions: the Chardonnay is from Pafos, Cabernet Sauvignon and Xynisteri from Kyperounda and other varieties from the Limassol area. This makes Kyperounda one of the largest producers on the island. The winery is all the more important for its quality, with a gravity-feed cellar to ensure gentle handling of the grapes and must.

Not only the Cabernet Sauvignon is characterised by exceptional concentration and aromas, the white wines too are worth a mention: the balance of fruit and acidity in the Xynisteri „Petritis“ is one of the best on the island, with its prominent apricot and yellow plum aromas. It is the only estate to offer a 2003 vintage – whereas Xynisteri is generally thought to be incapable of ageing, here it provides a fireworks of tropical aromas such as pineapple and mango. The Chardonnay is not unbalanced in spite of its hefty 14% alcohol level, it is matured in new and old barriques, has a concentrated texture and fresh citrus notes, and is one of the best white wines on Cyprus. Minas Mina has no intention of letting up in the Cypriot wine revolution: in order to avoid the increase in temperature when fermenting in barriques, he is currently testing methods to maintain temperatures below 10° C by cooling the barrels. They use a lot of barriques here, around 300 at present, French oak for the white wines, American for the reds.

Tsiakkas: A bundle of energy, just waiting to express himself

Costas Tsiakkas

It is not easy to stem the flow of words of winemaker Costas Tsiakkas a long-time banker, and passionate wine producer since 1988. And why should you? In discussions with interested visitors, he tends to provide all the cues for himself, and simply wants to know how visitors like his wines. The Maratheftiko? Complex, harmonious, highly aromatic! His main product, the Xynisteri? Beautifully pure, with aromas of apples and pears! O.K., and the Sauvignon Blanc? Superbly refreshing and lively, with prominent citrus notes! According to Tsiakkas, this type of quality was not available in the past: „Cyprus was a closed shop until we joined the EU“. In his irresistible staccato, Costas Tsiakkas expresses the view that he has learnt after several years of growing grapes at an altitude of 1.000 metres that the indigenous grapes „are the best for Cyprus“.

According to him, the best for his wine estate in Pellendri, far from his former home in Limassol, is soon to be a complete changeover of his seven hectares of own vineyards to organic practices. The annual production of 170.000 bottles is made up mainly of Xynisteri and Maratheftiko, but also includes Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc. As he himself says, he is a member of the Green party in Cyprus, and the organic direction is really the only way for him: this uncompromising bundle of energy expects organically produced grapes to give him an additional improvement in quality, although his wines are already examples of sophistication, and expects to sell them to better supermarkets and luxury hotels with the same degree of success he already enjoys with his Chardonnays, Cabernets and Xynisteris. Not least, his barrel-matured and brandy-coloured dessert wine Commandaria raises expectations that his unbounded energy will still provide many new ideas for the wine industry on Cyprus.

Vineyards in the clouds

Northeast of Limassol

Aes Ambelis: Strategist at the Holy Sepulchre of vines

George Tripatsas

The only wine estate far and wide in the Nicosia area is owned by former investment banker George Tripatsas. While in the early 1990’s wine making was still just a hobby, ten years later he decided ten years ago that wine provided even more of an adventure and a challenge than financial derivatives and investment recommendations. He left the bank, secured his income by working as a free-lance financial advisor, and in the same year established the Aes Ambelis winery (the “Holy Sepulchre of the Vine”). His vision was to create quality wines that would also have “an international impact”. In 2004, at the age of 42, George Tripatsas was ready to go into the wine business full-time. His strategy was to place the uncompromising quest for quality first, subordinating all other decisions: this is a modern winery, technically equipped to ensure that grapes are gently handled und fully controlled and reproduceable conditions, with half the production coming from indigenous varieties such as Xynisteri and Maratheftiko, the other half from international varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. While Tripatsas currently owns only 6.5 hectares of vineyards, he also has access via long-term contracts to grapes from an additional 25 hectares of leased vineyards, which are worked exclusively by his own, specially trained team of workers.

He also eliminates the element of chance in terms of drought stress for his young vines by irrigating them. According to Tripatsas, this allows better development of the young vines, helps to avoid harsh tannins, and provides more fruit by extending the vegetation period. George Tripatsas, together with his winemaker Savvas Fakoukakis, has certainly succeeded, as is stated specifically in his business plan, in achieving „international recognition“ of his wines: highlights include the exceptionally fresh and fruity Xynisteri, which includes a small portion of Sémillon, as well as the full-bodied, spicy blend „Aes Ambelis red“, consisting of Cabernet Sauvignon, Mataro, Grenache and Maratheftiko with prominent dark cherry and berry notes; these are prime examples of a modern wine style. The rosé of Maratheftiko, Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon is another success: „Young people have discovered this wine as an entry into the world of wine, it is very refreshing in our climate“.

Hadjiantonas: a hobby turned into a passion

Natasha Hadjiantonas

„Just for fun“, Natasha and Theodoros Hadjiantonas started making some wine for friends in the 2000 vintage. Today, the Hadjiantonas Estate located near Parekklisia, around 20 kilometres east of the port city of Limassol, produces around 50.000 bottles a year, and collects awards by the dozen at numerous competitions in Thessaloniki, France, Great Britain and on Cyprus. Wine is made in accordance with strict quality criteria in the newly built three-storey complex, with a spacious production level. „Both cleanliness and temperature control are decisive at all stages of production“, explains Natasha Hadjiantonas, who regularly tastes wines at all stages of processing together with her husband, they then decide on the further procedures. Wine enthusiast Theodoros Hadjiantonas, a busy pilot working for Cyprus Airways, had initially sought a new challenging hobby, and soon found that the hobby had become a passion, which soon took on a life of its own.

The self-taught winemaker devoured all the relevant books he could find, enrolled for distance studies in winemaking at the University of Thessaloniki in Greece, and exchanged views with his winemaker friends. The new quality-driven estate quickly learned that „too little attention was paid to vineyard work and to production“ on Cyprus. The estate currently produces six wines from its 23 hectares of own vineyards: there is an elegant Chardonnay as well as exceptionally aromatic sparkling wines made from Shiraz and Muscat, while the red wines are particularly impressive. These are matured for a minimum of 12 to 18 months in oak barrels. They are only released for sale after a total maturation period of two-and-a-half years. The complex Shiraz with its notes of pepper and mocha „reflects my husband’s character“, relates Natasha Hadjiantonas. And the blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Shiraz – the only recognized regional wine in the Nicosia region – with its silky texture and spicy aromas and chocolate reflects her own personality: „That is my favourite“. More favourites are likely to be added, as they plan to stick with their philosophy of “combining art and science for the top wines“.

Mavro vines