Italy

Italy is one of the oldest wine-producing countries in the world, its origins date back even further than 1000 BC. At around this time the Etruscans appeared in Central Italy, and colonised parts of what are now the regions of Umbria, Latium, Abruzzi and Tuscany. The origin of the Italian wine culture can be seen primarily in the effects of Greek colonisation, which, starting in the 1oth century BC, brought the Greek culture of wine initially to the island of Sicily, and then via Campania and Calabria to the Italian peninsula. The Greeks brought many of their grape varieties with them, and gave the country, which was found to be ideal for growing grapes, the name of Oinotria. At the same time, the Phoenicians, or Punians, who were later to become the great enemy, established military posts on Sicily and in the Mediterranean, and also exerted an important influence. A lively trade with the Celtic tribes in Gaul (France) developed from the 6th century BC onwards, with the Celts importing large quantities of wine from northern and central Italy. The Romans also learned from all these contacts, and developed winemaking to a fine art. Vines had been established all over the peninsula by the 3rd century BC. The culture of wine reached its high point in the 1st century BC. Up to its destruction by the eruption of the Vesuvius volcano in AD 79, Pompey was the wine trading centre and the key wine supply centre for the capital city, Rome. The most famous ancient wines at the time were Caecubian, Falernian and Surrentinum. The Romans established vineyards in the newly conquered provinces in France, Spain, Portugal, Germany and England. Wine became a commodity that was both imported and exported, and the Romans also already produced wooden barrels for the transport of wine, which they ahd learned from the Celts.

A number of Roman authors has written sometimes very comprehensive works on viticulture and the culture of wine in general, giving us a very precise picture of the situation at the time. These range from purely scientific works and educational works to poetic description as well as descriptions of the eating and drinking culture of the time. In chronologial order, the most important are the elder Cato (234-149 BC), Vergil (70-19 BC), Horace (65-8 BC), Ovid (43 BC to 8 AD), Columella (1st half of the 1st century AD), Petronius (died 66 AD), the elder Pliny (23-79 AD) and Palladius (4th century AD). Wine became a cultural product par excellence, and in continuation of the Greek cult around Dionysos, the god of wine, the Roman god of wine Bacchus also enjoyed a great following. The Romans were very creative in terms of wine production methods. One of the specialities was the use of resin, honey, spices and herbs, which were used to add aromas to the wine, and to make it more palatable, and also to make it keep for longer. The first perlé wines were produced, which involved storing the amphorae in ice-cold mountain streams, thus interrupting fermentation. There was an intense interest in breeding vine varieties in the first century AD, and the aim was to find the best and most suitable variety for each type of soil. Many of the grape varieties considered to be indigenous to Italy today are derived from the ancient varieties cultivated at that time. However, the culture of wine fell apart through the collapse of the Roman empire in the 5th century, and the mass migrations in Europe in the period thereafter. Only the abbies and monasteries of the Roman Catholic chruch continued to maintain the culture of wine.

The early Renaissance period in the 14th century saw the next major upswing in Italian viticulture. In order to revive Italian wine production, pope Paul III. (1468-1549) prohibited French wine, and had detailed reports and overviews on all Italian wines drawn up. In 1716, under grand duke Cosimo III. (1642-1723) of the Medici family, the wine zones for Chianti were defined in Tuscany. Italy was thus one of the first countries ot have a designation of origin system. However, it was only in the 19th century when with the aid of the French wine types such as Barolo, Brunello and Chianti were created (which were to become famous a century and a half later) that the industry really experienced a new beginning. Italy has more than 2.000 different grape varieties, without a doubt the largest number of any country in the world, many of these are still of Greek and Roman origin. However, “only” 400 of these varieties, including all the well-known European varieties, are officially permitted. The great wines of Italy are practically all red wines, although naturally there are also some excellent white wines available. The twelve grape varieties most widely planted are:

* Trebbiano (white) 96.000 ha
* Sangiovese (red) 86.000 ha
* Catarratto Bianco (white, several variants) 76.000 ha
* Malvasia (white and red, several variants) 50.000 ha
* Barbera (red) 47.000 ha
* Italia (table grape, white) 37.000 ha
* Merlot (red) 32.000 ha
* Montepulciano (red) 31.000 ha
* Negroamaro (red) 30.000 ha
* Regina (table grape, white) 19.000 ha
* Primitivo (red) 17.000 ha
* Nero d´Avola = Calabrese (red) 14.000 ha

Italy has a total vineyard area of 908.000 hectares, and an annual production of around 52 million hectolitres of wine (as per 2000), putting it in the category of the biggest wine producers worldwide, together with France and Spain. Wine is produced from the extreme north (Trentino-Alto Adige) to the deep south (Sicily) as well as on the Mediterranean islands. Currently, far in excess of 300 DOC and DOCG zones have been defined, producing around 1.000 different types of wine. However, this category accounts for only around 20% of total production. There are around 2 million producers/grape growers, 340.000 cellars and 45.000 wine bottlers. More than half the agricultural units also own some vineyards (around 80% less than 5 ha, and only 1% more than 50 ha). In summary, one can describe Italy as the most varied wine-producing country in the world. Soils are extremely varied, but the climate has some common influencing factors. The Alps provide a barrier against cold winds from the north, the Apennines provide a weather divide running from north to south, from Piemonte to Sicily. The Mediterranean to the east and the Tyrrhenian Sea to the west, as well as the numerous lakes and rivers play a significant part in influencing the weather. The best growing regions have average temperatures of between 12 and 16 °C, adequete snow and rainfall in winter, and warm to hot summers with plenty of rainfall lasting until late autumn. The vineyards are located at altitudes of from sea level to 1.000 metres above sea level. In contrast to France, the 20 wine-growing regions coincide with the political regional boundaries:

* Abruzzi (L`Aquila) 33.352 ha
* Aosta valley (Aosta) 635 ha
* Apulia (Bari) 106.715 ha
* Basilicata (Potenza) 10.848 ha
* Emilia-Romagna (Bologna ) 58.237 ha
* Friuli-Giulia-Venezia (Triest) 18.704 ha
* Calabria (Catanzaro) 24.339 ha
* Campania (Naples) 41.129 ha
* Latium (Rome) 47.884 ha
* Liguria (Genoa) 4.837 ha
* Lombardy (Milano) 26.951 ha
* Marches (Ancona) 24.590 ha
* Molise (Campobasso) 7.650 ha
* Piemonte (Turin) 57.487 ha
* Sardinia (Cagliari) 43.331 ha
* Sicily (Palermo) 133.518 ha
* Tuscany (Florence ) 63.633 ha
* Trentino-Alto Adige (Trient) 12.810 ha – divided into Trentino and Alto Adige
* Umbria (Perugia ) 16.503 ha
* Veneto (Venice) 75.314 ha

Until after the Second World War, wine production in Italy had focussed on quantity rather than on quality. A real change came about from the 1960’s onward. The first region in which the „Italian miracle“ became evident was the Chianti Classico region in Tuscany, which made a radical break with the past. This was decisively influenced by such famous estates as Antinori, Frescobaldi and Ricasoli, followed later by Ca´ del Bosco in Lombardy. Italian wine has undergone more significant changes in the last three decades of the 20th century than in the three millenia before that. A comprehensive wine law was created in 1963 (this has since been changed and added to several times), introducing the new quality designations „Denominazione di Origine Controllata“ (DOC), followed later by the addition of „e Garantita“ (DOCG) for the very best wines, this has contributed significantly to the improvement in quality. In fact, the Italians even went a step further than the French, as the DOC rules also specify, among other things, the desired colour (colore) and taste (odore) for each wine, as well as the minimum maturation period (invecchiamento minimo). The addition of the word „Classico“ designates traditional regions within a zone. If the alocohol content is higher, resp. the maximum yield is lower than the legal requirements, the wine may be called a Superiore, and a Riserva i fit has been matured in barrel for an additional period. The following four levels of quality are defined:

VdT = Vino da tavola: The lowest level of quality is equivalent to Tafelwein in Asutria or Germany, and to vin de table in France. The label may not state a variety, a vintage nor a geographical origin, it may only be called „Bianco“ (white) or „Rosso“ (red). This is the largest category, accounting for around 40% of total production.

IGT = Indicazione Geografica Tipica: This is the next higher quality level, equivalent to Landwein in Germany or Austria, and to vin de pays in France. It must exhibit a typical character based on its geographic origin. The label may state a region, such as „Rosso di Toscana“ or may also state a grape variety, such as „Moscato di Canelli“. The underlying law came into force in 1992, it is called the Goria law, named after Giovanni Goria (born 1929), the minister of agriculture at the time, it replaces the previous designation „Vino da tavola indicazione geographica“. This led to a significant upswing in the development, which had already begun in the 1970’s, of excellent vini da tavola, and now also of IGT wines, which often have a level of quality equal to DOC or even DOCG level, which became known under the heading of Super-Tuscans. The minimum requirements for alcohol content and maximum yields are not as strict as those for DOC. The zones are generally much larger than the DOC zones. For example, the following IGT’s encompass the entire respective regions: Marches, Tuscany and Umbria. There are around 130 IGT wines, they make up around 30% of total production.

DOC = Denominazione di Origine Controllata: These are quality wines with a specified origin, they must be made from specified permitted grape varieties, grown within defined regions, with specified yields and specific permitted methods of production and maturation (see below). Some DOC zones produce a single wine, others several, and in different colours, in different styles of from different varietes. In Alto Adige, the German description QbA (Qualitätswein bestimmter Anbaugebiete, quality wine of specified origin) is permissible as an alternative. This category of wines accounts for 25% of production.

DOCG = Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita: These are quality wines with controlled and guaranteed descriptions of origin, and consitute the highest class of wine, guaranteeing the authenticity of particularly highly regarded wines. These wines account for only 5% of total production.

DOC and DOCG correspond to the French AOC system. The regulations cover items such as permitted grape varieties, shape of bottle, minimum maturation periods in barrel and in bottle, minimum alcohol content, minimum acidity, minimum nett dry extract, as well as colour and bouquet. The wines are chemically analysed and tasted sensorically before being released for sale. Since 1992, in the case of wines of exceptional quality it is also permissible to state controlled designations of origin such as the sub-zone (sottozona), commune (comune), suburb (frazione), micro-climatic zone (microzona), estate or production unit (fattoria, cascina or podere) as well as the single vineyard site or parcel (vigna or vigneto). The new law thus emphasises the importance of origin. The wines or regions can be upgraded or downgraded flexibly within the hierarchy of quality. This means that DOC regions that put in a poor performance are eliminated. If wines have maintained their quality consistently for five years, they are awarded DOC status, and DOCG status is awarded after a further five years. This is also possible for sub-regions and for individual vineyard sites (vigna), the latter is considered to be the highest classification. A single outstanding branded wine can be awarded DOCG status if it is considered that it “contributes to the honour of Italy”. As of 2006 there were around 320 classified zones Bereiche, of which 33 are DOCG (Asti is considered to be a single area – although there are two wines, the same applies for Bardolino and Soave):
Name resp. region (synonyms) Colour Main grape variety Region
Albana di Romagna White Albana Emilia-Romagna
Asti (Asti Spumante) White Moscato Bianco Piemonte
Barbaresco Red Nebbiolo Piemonte
Bardolino Classico SuperioreBardolino Red Corvina Veneto
Bardolino SuperioreDolcetto di Dogliani Red Dolcetto Piemonte
Fiano di Avellino White Fiano Campania
Franciacorta White, rosé Chardonnay, PN Lombardy
Gattinara Red Nebbiolo Piemonte
Gavi (Cortese di Gavi, Gavi di Gavi) White Cortese Piemonte
Ghemme Red Nebbiolo Piemonte
Greco di Tufo White Greco Bianco Campania
Montefalco Sagrantino Red Sagrantino Umbria
Montepulciano d´Abruzzo Colline TerameneMontepulciano d´Abruzzo Red Montepulciano Abbruzzi
Moscato d´AstiRosso Conero Red Montepulciano Marches
Soave Classico SuperioreSoave White Garganega Veneto
Soave SuperioreValtellina (Sfursàt) Red Chiavennasca Lombardy
Valtellina Superiore#Valtellina Red Nebbiolo Lombardy
Vermentino di Gallura White Vermentino Sardinia
Vernaccia di San Gimignano White Vernaccia Tuscany
Vernaccia di Serrapetrona Red Vernaccia Nera Marches
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Red Sangiovese Tuscany