Vintages

The Wein-Plus Wine Guide has been available since the 1999 vintage. Below you will find information on the individual vintages in Germany.

The 1999 vintage

Although, as always, there were some marked regional differences, the vintage was characterised all over Germany by three basic characteristics: early flowering, extreme heat during summer and partially warm and humid weather in autumn. Whereas grapes experienced burning during summer, and maturation stopped in parts due to the extreme drought, the warm, humid weather in autumn caused the grapes to swell significantly, causing a reduction in extract values. Growers who picked too early ran a danger of ending up with grapes that were only ripe in terms of the chemical analysis, but not physiologically ripe. This is why there are dry Spätlese and Auslese wines with an alcohol level of more than 13%, moderate extract, and partly unripe, grassy aromas. Quite frequently, therefore, the Kabinett wines are more harmonious than the supposed top wines. In addition, the stress to which the vines were subjected in many places brought about untypical ageing notes (UTA = untypische Alterungsnote), a problem even for some otherwise very reliable producers. Those producers who started thinning out their bunches early and harvested as late as possible definitely held the advantage, as can be seen by some outstanding results particularly among the dry wines.

Uneven development of botrytis made it extremely difficult to produce top-quality botrytis dessert wines. Picking of ice wine was delayed, sometimes until well into January, which did not always make for particularly clean wines. Many Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese wines as well as ice wines are affected by mushroomy flavours, or simply lack complexity and breeding. In many cases the Auslese wines are better than the higher predicates.

However, 1999 was a very special year for red wines, particularly those made from the Pinot varieties. They benefited from the vintage conditions, much more so than most of the white varieties. Thus, a large number of very good to outstanding red wines was produced, in a quality and quantity not before seen in Germany. In the Ahr valley and in the Rheingau, in Franken as well as in the Pfalz region, new standards of quality were set. In Baden it was a newcomer to the industry in Bühl who showed what was possible, while many established producers focussed too strongly on oak maturation and on excessive concentration (sometimes machine-aided).

Not an easy vintage overall, therefore, which in some aspects really split the men from the boys, and cruelly punished too high yields. Nevertheless, quite a number of producers were able to use the conditions optimally, and produced outstanding ranges.

The 2000 vintage

Budding took place extremely early, sometimes in the 3rd week of March, and flowering in some cases took place at the end of May, raising hopes for a vintage of the century. The weather conditions proceeded along ideal lines, so that development was 3 weeks ahead of the average, largely unaffected by cooler weather in July. From mid-August, rainy weather set in gradually in all wine-growing regions - and virtually did not stop. The warm and at the same time humid weather brought rot. Whereas the early-ripening varieties could in many cases be harvested early, and in healthy condition, Riesling and other late-ripening varieties forced the producers to keep hoping, and to cut out rotten grapes almost on a daily basis.

In the end, some vineyards produced only tiny quantities of healthy grapes, and in quite a few parcels the grapes rotted completely over a period of only a few days. However, the situation was not equally disastrous everywhere. Whereas the Mittelhaardt region and much of the Rheingau experienced catastrophic conditions, the Lower Mosel, some parts of the Nahe and Württemberg, the Markgräflerland area, the eastern part of Franken and the two regions in eastern Germany were obviously lucky. These areas managed to bring in a relatively large harvest in dry conditions, which is reflected in well-structured wines with pure fruit.

One must say that the vintage also presented opportunities. In contrast to 1999, water supply was not a problem anywhere. Given meticulous work in the vineyard, it was thus possible in most areas to produce wines with juicy fruit and high extract, two attributes that were frequently lacking in 1999. This is particularly obvious on the Mosel, where, after the sometimes very pale and short-lived 1999 wines, hard-working and conscientious wine producers were again able to make Riesling wines with substance and maturation potential. In Baden, the number of flat, overly alcoholic wines is much reduced in comparison to the previous vintage.

I am surprised to see how many producers managed to make very good red wines this year. Some barrels are filled with a quality I would not have considered possible under these conditions. In the Ahr valley, some really outstanding wines have been made with almost superhuman effort. Hardly any of the well-known producers in this region has shown any weaknesses.

Unfortunately, the fairly loose use many association officials, co-operative managers and also direct marketers made with the truth casts a shadow on the positive aspects of the 2000 vintage. The harvest reports are often dripping with superlatives such as “dream vintage” or “vintage of the century”. There is an uncritical celebration of high must weights, with no regard as to whether these were actually caused by botrytis, or noble rot, or by (undesirable) grey and sour rot, which was much more frequently the case. The number of really clean dessert wine made this year is minuscule, and the volumes behind the few successes are ridiculously small. However, in all other taste and quality categories, too, really clean, ripe wines are pretty much the exception to the rule. Even top producers were often unable to avoid waxy aromas based on the rot, or unripe and green aromas. In addition, the significant efforts that had to be made in the cellar where the grapes had not been sufficiently rigorously pre-selected, in order to make a half-way drinkable wine, were often clearly evident. Only a handful of producers succeeded in presenting a really impressive range. In most of the other cases, all the talk about a dream vintage, or a vintage of the century, is evidence only of a lack of respect for consumers. Perhaps the more apt terms sometimes are also ignorance and hypocrisy. When will we realise that this kind of behaviour, rather than speaking the uncomfortable truth, serves only to discredit German wine, over and over again?

The 2001 vintage

Following a mild winter and a relatively wet spring, optimum conditions in May ensured rapid development in the vineyards. July brought an above-average amount of rainfall, and a very wet September put paid to expectations of a very good vintage. However, the high-pressure system “Nadja” settled in the first week of October, ensuring text-book autumn weather for weeks on end. Sugar levels leapt up, and producers who thinned out their crops in time were able to bring in mainly healthy grapes with excellent quality.

The result is one of the most homogenous vintages in Germany for a long time. In particular the late-ripening grape varieties produced outstanding results. From the Mosel down to the Ortenau region, complex Riesling wines with high extract levels were produced, the best of which have a long maturation potential. There can be hardly any other vintage in the recent history of German viticulture in which so many outstanding dry wines have been produced. The red wines, too, benefited from the “Golden October”, and presented German wine producers with the second outstanding vintage for red wines since 1999.

The harvest volume was significantly below the average. The total volume of around 9 million hectolitres was approximately 12 % below the long-term average.

The 2002 vintage

After an unusually cold winter, which saw severe frost on the 24th of December and 6th of January cause quite considerable damage in some vineyard sites, the wine season began with early budding, as well as very even flowering, thanks to ideal weather conditions in June. Throughout summer, both the temperature as well as the rainfall were above average, which led to early problems with rot and downy mildew. Only extensive and meticulous work in the vineyard could ensure the grapes remained reasonably healthy, and in a position to avoid a catastrophe such as had happened in the 2000 vintage.

At the same time, the warm summer ensured the ripening level was around 2 weeks ahead of the average, some of which was maintained right through to September. Where the vineyards remained healthy, quality-conscious producers were rewarded with yellow-gold grapes with outstanding sugar and acid levels at the end of October, in spite of the onset of rain. The ample water supply also ensured unusually high extract levels, as well as a mineral expression in the finished wines rarely seen before. In the category of dry Riesling wines, world-class wines were produced in the Pfalz region, in Rheinhessen and in the Rheingau region. The red wines were less favoured by the cool, rainy autumn. Only in very rare cases could the concentration and structure of 1999 and 2001 be equalled.

The 2003 vintage

The hottest year in the past 600 years initially brought wine-growers in Germany early flowering, and a ripening level four weeks ahead of the average. However in summer some of the less positive aspects of the tremendous heat-wave became evident. While sugar levels shot sky-high, in those vineyards with poor water supply the physiological ripeness of the grapes was unable to keep pace. Even late ripening varieties had Spätlese-level must weights in August, with relatively low acidity, causing some to begin harvesting several weeks before the usual date. In many cases the results are green, unripe wines that show only the technical analysis of ripe grapes. Here, also, one saw a multitude of wines that developed untypical ageing notes very early, and lost whatever charm they may have had after only a few weeks in the bottle.

Thus only those producers who had the courage to wait for physiologically ripe grapes had any chance of being rewarded. Nevertheless, in sites that were particularly affected by the drought, frequently only over-alcoholic wines with low extract and no expression could be produced. In addition, the exceptionally thick grape skins created tannin levels in white wines that one would usually expect to see only in red wines.

Nevertheless, given carefully tended soils and an adequate water supply, the vintage provided conditions fort he production of wines of exceptional quality in practically all regions. Whereas the early-ripening grape varieties produced very few really outstanding results, Riesling, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris, particularly in the more northerly growing areas, but also in the Pfalz region, were able to celebrate great successes. As the grapes in many cases remained completely healthy right into late autumn, botrytis dessert wines were produced that are exceptionally clean and brilliant, and in some cases are the best ever produced in this category. The losers in this vintage must be the producers in Baden, traditionally the warmest region in any case. Here, particularly in the case of the white wines, it was only rarely possible to maintain any sort of balance between fruit and alcohol.

When it comes to red wines, even in Baden, things look quite different. Full-bodied, deep-coloured red wines were produced in all regions. However, here too it was necessary to wait for full physiological ripeness, and to keep yields low. Where this was not done, the wines had high must weights, and thus high alcohol levels, as well as good colour, but are lacking in extract: they appear hollow, and are unlikely to develop harmoniously. Generally speaking, one should keep an eye on the wines of this vintage, and not just assume they will develop in the cellar over many years. Frequently wines from such hot years develop much more quickly than one would expect

Jahrgang 2004

Good news about the 2004 vintage was spread at an early stage. Budding was early, and flowering in general was not beset by any problems. Nevertheless, the vineyards continued to suffer from the after-effects of the drought experienced in 2003. Only in mid-June did some rain bring a little relief. The summer was changeable, but overall was actually warmer than it might have been perceived subjectively. Sugar values developed satisfactorily, and acid levels, too, remained at above-average levels for a long time. Only where producers picked very late, and reduced their yields, could really harmonious, ripe grapes be harvested. However, two weeks of fine weather in mid-October convinced most producers to complete the vintage before the onset of more wet weather.

The initial reports on the freshly fermented wines were once again optimistic, even euphoric. Following on the hot 2003 vintage, with its full-bodied wines and low acid levels, producers were happy to see wine with crisp acidity and normal alcohol levels. Commentators spoke of a “classic vintage”, which was most welcome to producers and consumers alike. Unfortunately, the problems of the vintage in many cases only became evident once the wines had already spent some time in bottle. In many cases the acidity was perceived as hard, and lacking in charm. Even more unpleasant were the almost ubiquitous tannins and frequent bitter notes. The stress of drought in the previous vintage as well as in the first months of 2004 left noticeable marks, even more so than in 2003. Hardly a wine was totally spared these characteristics, most of them certainly lost brilliance and charm. The trend of making the wines appear more lively and fresh by the addition of carbon dioxide did not help much either. These “dollied-up” wines only appeared even more rough, and less charming.

The problems associated with the vintage were often more noticeable in the northerly wine-growing regions, more so than in the south Primarily in the Kaiserstuhl district in Baden one can even in some parts speak of an excellent vintage. In contrast to the 2003 vintage, with ist sometimes overwhelming alcohol levels, many wines very decidedly harmonious, with the best of them concentrated and well-structured. In other regions, too, meticulous work in the vineyards was able to lead to outstanding results. Where grapes were picked late, and yields kept low (the overall average harvest volume was 21% higher than that of the previous vintage, and a full 8% higher than the ten-year average), some producers were able to produce great, complex and full-bodied dry wines which are expected to have a long maturation potential, unlike the trend for the vintage.

Unfortunately. 2004 was not a particularly good vintage for sweet botrytis wines. Botrytis developed late and unevenly, and frequently the bitter notes and tannins were even more noticeable in the higher must weight categories. With regard to the red wines, too, the vintage appears to be rather uneven, although it is too early to say with any certainty that it was a disappointing vintage. Some of the wines submitted so far for tasting have shown themselves in better shape than was expected.