Award winners Range of the Year

Each year in spring, Wein-Plus selects the Range of the Year for Germany! This honours those producers who in the previous year had presented the best range of wines of outstanding quality.

The following awards were presented on 17th March 2008:

Weingut Meyer-Näkel, Ahr

The range of red wines of the 2005 vintage presented by past master Werner Näkel is almost without equal anywhere in Germany. The quality on offer, be it in blends or in the single vineyard wines, is absolutely compelling, and among the best ever produced by this estate. With all their concentration, body and depth, these beautiful Pinot Noirs retain a finesse and freshness only rarely to be found in the region these days. Fortunately Näkel has resisted the temptation of over-oaking excellent raw material in the misguided hope of producing blockbuster wines. Once more, the Meyer-Näkel estate has set the standard for German Pinot Noir. This is the second time (after 2003) that the “Range of the Year” award has gone to this estate.

Weingut Bercher, Baden

Even in a difficult year such as this, the Bercher estate has presented a remarkable range, in which even the Kabinett wines in most cases show exceptional class. Only a small number of producers in Baden is able to produce wines so full of character, and with maturation potential, year after year. The 2006 vintage, in particular, presented a challenge that only a few producers in the region were able to master. The white wines Bercher has produced stand head and shoulders above most of the other products in the region in this vintage, they also manage to retain their unmistakeable uncompromising style, in spite of the difficult conditions. This is the second time (after 2006) that the “Range of the Year” award has gone to this estate.

Weingut Hans Wirsching, Franken

The 2006 vintage has confirmed once more that this is one of the leading producers, if not the leading producer in Franken at the moment. Even in a difficult vintage you are highly unlikely to encounter any weaknesses. All the wines of the 2006 vintage have been meticulously crafted, they virtually all show off their origins, and all of them are exceedingly drinkable. The First Growths are particularly outstanding this year. They have a substance and depth rarely found even in this leading estate, and they have an exceptional mineral character. All of them are among the outstanding dry white wines of the vintage, not only in Franken. This is the second time (after 2006) that the “Range of the Year” award has gone to this estate.

Weingut Florian Weingart, Mittelrhein

For a number of years now, Florian Weingart has been producing some of the very best wines of the region from his vineyard sites in the Bopparder Hamm. However, in 2006 he has produced a particularly remarkable range of wines. Be they dry, off-dry or sweet, even the entry-level wines are extremely enjoyable to drink. You will search in vain for any weak spots. However, the phenomenal Trockenbeerenauslese still stands head and shoulders above all the other wines in the range. Quite simply, it is one of the best wines ever produced in the Mittelrhein region. Add to this the fact that it would be difficult to find this level of quality anywhere in the world at a lower price.

Weingut Willi Schaefer, Mosel

The performance curve of this estate continues to show a steep upward trend, and it is quite remarkable to see the breathtaking range of wines the Schaefer father and son team has produced in this difficult vintage. Virtually all of the wines are firm with a prominent mineral character, the best examples also have tremendous persistence and complexity. Once again the estate lays its claim to being one of the leading wine producers in the Mosel region, and of sweet Riesling worldwide.

Weingut Emrich-Schönleber, Nahe

2006 has all the prerequisites of being a legendary vintage for the Emrich-Schönleber estate. Not a single one of the wines gives the impression of having been made under extremely difficult conditions, quite the contrary. The sweet botrytis wines are superb, the sweet Spätlese wines are exceptional, combining concentration, gripping intensity, complexity and a high level of elegance, and the First Growths leave little to be desired. The legendary Halenberg, in particular, leaves one speechless: here, too, body, depth and elegance combine to produce a masterpiece. It is not the first time that Werner Schönleber has demonstrated his right to be counted among the best white wine producers in the world. After 2004, this is the second time the estate has been rewarded with the “Range of the Year” accolade.

Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz, Pfalz

The Pfalz region, perhaps more than any other, suffered particularly from the difficult weather conditions of the vintage. That makes the consistently outstanding performance of this estate under such difficult conditions all the more exceptional and noteworthy. It is evident that Hans-Jörg Rebholz had the right feel for the vintage, and he has presented a convincing range of wines full of character, totally typical of the uncompromising style of the estate. We were particularly impressed by the two Riesling First Growths. They are among the very few dry wines of the vintage to have some potential for development. This is the second time (after 2002) that Hansjörg Rebholz has been awarded the “Range of the Year” accolade.

Domäne Schloss Johannisberg, Rheingau

A First Growth that sets a new standard for this category in the Rheingau region, supported by a fist-class range in which even the entry-level wines shine - Schloss Johannisberg remains firmly on track, and if there were any doubts in the past, it now once again takes over the role of flagship of not only Rheingau but German Riesling culture. The dry Riesling wines are better than ever, and even if they are more concentrated and full-bodied than ever, they retain their unmistakeable regional character and sense of place.

Weingut Keller, Rheinhessen

Year after year, Klaus Peter Keller confirms his exceptional status in the Rheinhessen region. Even if the really outstanding performances of past vintages were simply not possible to equal in this difficult vintage, the wines almost without exception show real class. Once again the G-Max and Hubacker are among the most impressive dry Riesling wines in the country, and even the exceptionally inexpensive Silvaner shows exceptional quality in its class. 2006 is considered to be a good vintage for top-quality botrytis wines, but there are many disappointing examples around. Not so in the Keller winery – the Auslese, Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese wines made from Riesling and Rieslaner are great wines without exception. The fifth time the winery has been awarded the Range of the Year in succession!

Sächs. Staatsweingut Schloss Wackerbarth, Sachsen

It is rare for a state-run wine estate to be among the leading producers in its region. That makes it all the more pleasant a task to point out the success of the state winery in Saxony this year. This winery, too, has taken some time to find its feet, but the leap in quality seen here particularly in the past year is most impressive. The wines presented this year are of a uniformly high quality, and also show a typical character of the region that is still found only rarely. This is the first time we have rewarded a Range of the Year in the eastern part of Germany, and we are thus particularly happy to be able to make this award.

Weingut Ernst Dautel, Württemberg

Almost without exception, the wines submitted are very harmonious and polished, and clearly bear the signature of Ernst Dautel, who in a difficult vintage has once again shown he is a real master of his trade. Following on previous awards in 2003 and 2006, this is the third time that Dautel has been awarded the distinction of “Range of the Year.” The estate has for long been a benchmark for first-class quality in the region, and with the region as a whole experiencing an upswing, Ernst Dautel continues to lead the way!

Rising star of the year 2008

Weingut Dr. Hermann, Mosel

Each year, the wines from this winery get better and better, and the 2006 vintage was no exception at the Weingut Dr. Hermann estate, showing further improvement. In spite of the difficult weather conditions, the Auslese wines, in particular, were exceptionally good this year. If they keep on improving at this rate, it is only a matter of time until this is one of the leading producers in the Mosel region.

Winzergenossenschaft des Jahres 2008

Fellbacher Weingärtner, Württemberg

There are not many cooperatives in Germany working at the high level currently being shown by the Fellbacher Weingärtner cooperative. We are particularly impressed by the uniform standard at a very high level.
One can practically recommend every wine produced here, almost without exception. Given the extremely difficult conditions of the 2006 vintage, the range of wines presented is a real masterpiece, which was not equalled by many privately owned producers this year. The Fellbach cooperative is fast developing to be one of the leading producers in Württemberg.

The following awards were presented on 18th March 2007:

Weingut Adeneuer, Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler, Ahr

The estate owned by Frank and Marc Adeneuer is far less present in the headlines of the press than many other estates in the Ahr valley, leading many lovers of German Pinot Noir to relegate it to the second rank of wine producers in the Ahr region. This would be a mistake, as shown by the wines of the difficult 2004 vintage, but also by the red wines of the 2005 vintage presented so far.

For some time now, the Pinot Noirs and Pinot Madeleines presented by the Adeneuers have appeared to us as being among the most authentic red wines of the region. New oak is used here extremely judiciously. This means that at first sight the wines are often less spectacular than those of many other wineries in the area. However, spend some time with the wines and you will be rewarded with both fruit and a mineral structure that are supremely typical for the region. Even the most full-bodied examples retain an elegance that has become a rarity in the region.

For some time now, the Pinot Noirs and Pinot Madeleines presented by the Adeneuers have appeared to us as being among the most authentic red wines of the region. New oak is used here extremely judiciously. This means that at first sight the wines are often less spectacular than those of many other wineries in the area. However, spend some time with the wines and you will be rewarded with both fruit and a mineral structure that are supremely typical for the region. Even the most full-bodied examples retain an elegance that has become a rarity in the region.

Weingut Andreas Laible, Durbach, Baden

Laible is an institution in the Ortenau district – more than that, one of the leading producers of dry Riesling in Germany as a whole. In the past few years, nobody in the region even came close in presenting such a high standard of top-quality dry Riesling wines right across the range, year after year. However, it is not only the Riesling that is so successful here. For Andreas Laible, 2005 has been the most successful vintage since 2001, the year in which the estate was once before awarded our „Range of the Year“ distinction. Next to a long series of magnificent Riesling wines of all classes you will find equally good Gewürztraminer and Scheurebe wines that simply have no competition in Baden, with both dry and sweet versions of a quality rarely found anywhere else in Germany.

Weingut Schmitts Kinder, Randersacker, Franken

The 2005 vintage heralds an almost totally new style for the Schmitts Kinder estate. Once before, the estate was the best in the region, a pioneer proving that brilliant, racy, well-bred wines can be produced in the Franken region. While at that time the wines produced by Schmitts Kinder were moving in a modern, fruit-driven direction, the dry white wines of this vintage show an almost complete about-face.

Freed from the pedestrian, old-fashioned style of traditional Franken wines, often euphemistically referred to as earthy and baroque, the wines nevertheless come across as being more traditional than ever. It is unusual that it is with son Martin Joh. Schmitt at the helm that the estate has returned to its roots, producing wines that are uncompromisingly dedicated to their origins, and at the same time are as innovative fort he whole of Franken as the racy, fruity wines were 20 years ago. The wines are bone-dry, yet they command a complexity, depth and mineral structure at a level rarely seen here in the past. Even the Müller-Thurgau is an exceptional wine. Particularly the Kabinett version of this generally rather simple variety shows the triumphant expression of terroir at the Schmitts Kinder estate in this exceptional vintage.

Thus, the range presented this year may once again mark the beginning of a path on which this estate leads the entire region into the future. With all our excitement about the dry wines, we should not forget the top-quality sweet botrytis wines – we would be tempted to say they are as good as ever…while in reality even they are better than ever before...

Weingut Ratzenberger, Steeg, Mittelrhein

For a long time now, the Ratzenberger estate has been known for ist light-bodied, elegant and always surprisingly long-lived Riesling wines. Here, too, there are signs of a change in style, towards more substantial wines with more depth.
The wines benefiting most from this change are the dry Riesling wines, which have never been as good as in the 2005 vintage. The two Grand Crus (Großes Gewächs) from the Steeger St. Jost and the Bacharacher Wolfshöhle sites are probably the greatest dry Riesling wines ever produced in the Mittelrhein region. What is more, the description „dry“ is actually correct here, which is not in line with the current general practice when it comes to Grand Crus. The wines are fermented totally dry, proving beyond any doubt, if such proof were necessary, that even in the cooler, more northerly wine-growing regions in Germany it is by no means essential to provide some residual sugar in order to find an optimum balance for the wine. Here, exceptional concentration and depth are sufficient, together with a complexity of aromas rarely found so far in the region.

Having said that, it is not only the top-quality dry wines that impressed us in this vintage. Even the most basic wines are completely convincing, and the sweet as well as botrytis Riesling wines have also rarely been as good in recent years. The flagship wine is a glorious Trockenbeerenauslese, which seems destined to be the benchmark for sweet botrytis wines in the region for many years to come.

Weingut Markus Molitor, Wehlen, Mosel

Markus Molitor will certainly not be displeased if we describe him as being an extremist. In the roughly twenty years that he has been responsible for wine production at this estate with ist long tradition, Molitor has earned a solid reputation as one of the most uncompromising wine-makers of the region, indeed of the whole country.
His highly concentrated Trockenbeerenauslese wines attracted attention at an early stage, achieving prices on auction that were previously reserved for only a handful of legendary producers on the Mosel and Saar, and in the Rheingau region. Over time, the other wines also became ever more concentrated, gaining in depth, complexity and substance. By now it is fair to say that there are now Riesling wines in the entire region that exhibit more depth, concentration and sheer power. One cannot help but be drawn into an enchanted circle by the Molitor Riesling wines, they demand your attention and detailed study.

This style has found not only friends, and is controversial. This much is clear: the light-bodied little Mosel wines considered by many wine lovers to be typical of the region have nothing in common with Molitors unique Riesling wines. Nevertheless you would be wrong in regarding these wines as being less typical of the region. Quite the contrary: there are few producers who are as dedicated as Markus Molitor in determining the potential of some of the best vineyard sites of the Middle Mosel. Certainly one may argue this is only one of several ways of producing world-class wines in the Mosel, Saar and Ruwer regions, but the developments in the area make it clear how many followers Molitor’s style has by now. The last few years, in particular, have shown clearly that Molitor’s methods make him less dependent on extreme vintage variations, which have been increasingly evident in recent years as a result of global climate change. Thus the 2003 and 2004 vintages were extremely successful here. However, the 2005 vintage has given Markus Molitor an opportunity to present a masterpiece at a level even he cannot always achieve. The wines combine concentration, firm structure and enormous depth with brilliant purity and a bewitching elegance. Their sometimes overwhelming power is derived not from high alcohol levels, but from substance and inner concentration.

Only a small number of winemakers in the world is able to produce wines of this quality regularly. Considering the size of Molitor’s range, it is even more laudable that he achieves this repeatedly, and in so many instances. We would like to honour this achievement too: with the fifth star, which has long been due, and with the award for the “Range of the Year“.

Schloßgut Diel, Burg Layen, Nahe

Among the best-known estates in the region, this winery was for many years stuck in a reliable, solid third place – which means they were basically on the second level of the hierarchy of quality in this relatively small region. However, in recent years there have been increasing signs that everything is being done to radically change this situation.

In 2004, the estate was rated the best in the Nahe region for the first time, and also received the „Range of the Year“ award for the first time. Armin Diel, together with his cellar master Christoph J. Friedrich, repeated this performance in 2005 – even more impressively than in the previous year.
In our opinion, the dry Riesling wines have never before been as good as those of the 2005 vintage, with even the Classic demonstrating an exceptional standard. The majority of the sweet and botrytised Riesling wines are simply brilliant. The exceptional auction Spätlese shows clearly what was possible in the 2005 vintage in this category of wine. The deep, complex „Victor“ was also outstanding, in contrast to previous vintages, the use of oak is almost imperceptible, one of the reasons, but not the only one, why it is so much better than the other white Pinot wines. A delightful range, which ensures a place in the first league for the Diel estate – and not only with respect to the Nahe region.

Weingut Dr. Wehrheim, Birkweiler, Pfalz

Karl-Heinz Wehrheim is one of the quiet types among Germany’s leading wine producers. Brash notes and an overblown ego are quite foreign to his character. One could say the same about his wines, which are never overpowering or too obtrusive. The wines of this estate always reflect some sort of elegant restraint. However, that should not detract from the fact that the wines produced at the Wehrheim estate are regularly among the deepest and most characterful wines produced in the entire region.

In this regard, the 2005 range leaves nothing to be desired. Without any exception, every single wine presented in this range was totally convincing. Not only the exceptional purity and the perfectly displayed varietal character ensure the Wehrheim range has a place at the very top, they all also clearly reflect their origins. This is an exceptionally homogenous range, which is crowned by two impressive Grand Crus (Große Gewächse) made from Pinot Blanc and Riesling, we are confident that these powerful, firm deep wines will show an excellent development for many years to come.

Weingut Georg Breuer, Rüdesheim, Rheingau

This has been a great estate for many years, and the 2005 vintage is without a doubt just the kind of vintage the late Bernhard Breuer would have wished for – and there is also little doubt he would have been extremely happy to see what his daughter, his brother and the cellar master have made of the material available.

Both in the dry category and in the field of sweet botrytis wines, Theresa and Heinrich together with cellar master Hermann Schmoranz in 2005 produced first-rate, sometimes really exceptional wines. Even the fairly basic estate Riesling wines are impressive miniature masterpieces. The second-label wine „Montosa“ appears a little more tart and rustic, but nevertheless has an impressive firm structure and concentration. While the Roseneck and Rottland wines are still very closed at this stage, their depth and mineral structure are fascinating and impressive. In spite of its slightly hard youthful character at this stage, we believe the Roseneck, which has lots of herbs and spices, has the greater potential. At the same time, we would not be surprised if the Rottland, which is already surprisingly beguiling, still showed considerable development in bottle.
However, the jewels in the range are the Nonnenberg and Schlossberg wines – even compared to the other great Breuer Riesling wines these appear to come from a different world. The Nonnenberg presents a unique combination of extreme concentration paired with exceptional elegance, while the Schlossberg overwhelms you with its depth and its commanding presence. We followed the evolution of these wines over a number of days, in order to determine which of them has the edge on the other. Initially, we found the Nonnenberg more impressive, but at the end we felt the monumental Schlossberg had even more potential. Nevertheless, this must be regarded as a preliminary result. It is going to be very interesting to follow the development of these truly outstanding Riesling wines over the next 15 or 20 years.

One thing is already clearly evident: these are two of the greatest dry white wines you are likely to find anywhere at this stage. However, not only the dry Riesling wines are outstanding at this estate, the sweet botrytis wines also set new standards. This estate can look back on many successes – but overall the 2005 vintage is surely one of the greatest vintages ever produced here.

Weingut Keller, Flörsheim-Dalsheim, Rheinhessen

It is difficult to find something new to say about this exceptional estate, which produces such outstanding results year after year. Do we really have to mention, yet again, the brilliance of the Keller wines, their in most cases absolutely perfect balance, their combination of depth and power on the one hand with elegance and lightness, which can make one addicted to the wines, on the other?

One thing we do want to mention is that the simple basic Riesling is better than ever. You cannot get more wine anywhere for 7 Euros. The delightful dry Scheurebe wine is hardly any more expensive. As has been the case in the past few vintages, the Silvaner S is by far the prime example of this variety in the Rheinhessen region. However, not only the dry white wines are impressive, the botrytis wines, too, leave hardly anything to be desired. The Keller wine estate has now received the award for the “Range of the Year” for the fourth year in succession.

While we are pleased to note that the competition is hotting up in this region, it remains a fact that Keller is currently still out there on his own at the very top. Klaus and Klaus-Peter Keller can say without blushing that they are responsible in large measure for the upswing in the Rheinhessen region. One simply cannot overstate the importance of this estate as a guiding light and pioneer in the region.

Weingut Gerhard Aldinger, Fellbach, Wüttemberg

Gert Aldinger is the chairman of the regional VDP association in the Württemberg wine-growing region, but that is not his only outstanding position. His wines, too, have the function of serving as examples in the region. Purity is the first premise, and there are few producers in the region whose wines so clearly show off their origins and varietal character as do Gert and Hansjörg Aldinger, the latter of which has now taken over responsibility fort he cellar.
Their 2005 vintage is a homogeneous range of very good and sometimes excellent wines, which have gained in sharpness of contours and character when compared to previous vintages. This is also one of the few producers in Württemberg for which which we can also unhesitatingly recommend even the basic wines.

The Aldingers show their professionalism with any variety they choose to handle, however special mention should be made of Trollinger and Sauvignon Blanc. Outstanding wines are produced regularly from the Trollinger grape, bearing little resemblance to the thin quaffing wines the variety is usually associated with. With their enticing fruit and rare depth, the Trollinger wines produced by Aldinger occasionally provide serious competition to the best Schiava wines of Alto Adige. In recent years, the estate has repeatedly achieved great success and high honours with its Sauvignon Blanc. Here, too, Gert Aldinger is a pioneer, and there are few producers in Germany who are as successful as he is with this variety, which is still relatively new to Germany.

Rising star of the year

Weingut Kühling-Gillot, Bodenheim

2005 is a milestone in the history of the estate. Never before have the Riesling wines here been as good. At the same time, the wines are held in an uncompromising style that one would not have expected to find here.
They show in an exemplary manner what potential still slumbers in the slopes of the Rote Hang sites, and stand head and shoulders above practically all the dry Riesling wines produced in this most famous part of Rheinhessen in the past 15 years. To tell the truth, we cannot think of a single dry white wine from the Rote Hang that is of equal stature as this Rothenberg.

It appears this may be the beginning of a new era at the Kühling-Gillot estate. If this trend continues, we predict a rapid rise into the absolute elite group of producers in this region.

The following awards were presented on 24. March 2006:

Weingut Jean Stodden, Ahr
The 2003 vintage gave Gerhard and Alexander Stodden the opportunity to show they are not content with the status quo. Not for the first time, they managed to present a range of top-end Pinot Noirs such as has not yet been seen in Germany to date. They provide impressive evidence that world-class wines can undoubtedly be made in the Ahr region. While their style remains unmistakeable, they also remain absolutely true to their terroir. Most of the wines can still be expected to improve with maturation, and the best of the Pinot Noirs will undoubtedly take many years to reach their peak. With all these superlatives on hand, one is apt to forget the more basic wines: they too are good across the board, and show real class.

Weingut Bercher, Baden
The Bercher brothers, who are nowadays supported by their sons, are not likely to follow short-term fashions. For a long time now they have been producing wines in the Kaiserstuhl area that are initially quite unobtrusive when compared to the ubiquitous monster wines with their high extracts and loads of oak, instead, most of the Bercher wines impress with surprising depth and complexity. The Berchers remained faithful to their strengths in 2004, and have presented an outstanding range of white wines. Even the basic wines have character and an own, almost inimitable style. The best wines of the range impress not with a full body, but with depth, complexity and a personality not often found in the Kaiserstuhl region these days. The red wines of the 2003 vintage stay with the traditional Kaiserstuhl style, with prominent red berry fruit, and at the same time so soft and hedonistic that one is likely to overlook their depth. No disappointments here, a big compliment to the winemakers!

Weingut Hans Wirsching, Franken
With its 75 hectares of vineyard area, the Wirsching estate is a veritable ocean giant among the many small private wine estates in Germany. It is thus even more surprising to note the meticulous care and attention to detail reflected in practically all the wines. While they are extremely pure and even brilliant, the Wirsching wines are not a result of technical procedures in the cellar, rather they reflect the character of the gypsum keuper soils of the Steigerwald region on which they have grown to the greatest possible degree. They serve as examples for the region, and in the quality seen here also for the know-how and ability available in Franken wines. Everything has been successful here in the 2004 range, from the basic wines up to the dry top-level wines. Riesling and Silvaner wines are as excellent as ever, but this time round they are even beaten by the lovely Gewürztraminer: rarely have we seen the body and finesse of this variety so harmoniously combined. A masterly presentation in a basically quite difficult vintage.

Weingut Toni Jost, Bacharach, Mittelrhein
The 2004 vintage certainly also posed some tough problems in the Mittelrhein region. What Peter Jost has achieved in this vintage is thus all the more remarkable. Quite simply, one wine is better than the other, and even the basic Riesling wines are convincing – and, considering Jost’s excellent reputation and the quality of the wines, the prices can only be described as consumer-friendly. All of the wines show character, and many of them will still improve given a few more months time to mature. An astonishing range, of a uniform quality such as one will not easily find in the Mittelrhein region.

Weingut Heymann-Löwenstein, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer
Vintages that appear to be almost overwhelming for some of his colleagues appear to be an almost welcome challenge for Reinhard Löwenstein to improve on his own record. That simply has to be the reason for the almost unbelievable quality Löwenstein has presented this year. There is no doubt the sweet botrytis wines have great class, but the almost dry vineyard-specific wines steal the show this year. What a magic combination of depth, body and complexity on the one hand, and pure hedonistic drinking pleasure on the other is rare to find – anywhere in the world. Not only the top-ranked wines of the vintage are overwhelming, the so-called basic wines are equally impressive. We raise our hat to the winemaker.

Schlossgut Diel, Nahe
Even a relatively difficult vintage such as 2004 has not put a dent in the long series of excellent vintages produced by Diel. Quite the contrary, the estate appears to be improving from one vintage to the next. The vineyard-specific wines, in particular, have real class this year, they are elegant, complex and well-bred. In most cases, they are already very enjoyable right now, and all of them have a maturation potential that is not the rule for the 2004 vintage. Without a doubt the most homogenous range in the Nahe region.

Weingut Georg Mosbacher, Pfalz
The wines produced by the Mosbacher estate are archetypal reflections of the vintage conditions. Even the Kabinett wines are all a pleasure to drink. Jürgen Düringer really shows off his ability in the Spätlese wines, they are impressive concentrated, complex wines with hardly a hint of tannin. These wines can stand up to any competition, and are among the best of the vintage in Germany.

Weingut Franz Künstler, Rheingau
The 2004 vintage provides a seamless continuation of the outstanding results of the previous two vintages. Even the basic wines are of excellent quality, and impress with their crystal-clear fruit, concentration and structure, at a level that only few other producers in the Rheingau region can provide in their top-ranked wines. The range of dry top-ranked wines is once again great right across the board. Gunter Künstler on his own produces almost as many top-class dry Riesling wines as the whole Rheingau region has hitherto produced under the Grand Cru designation ("Erstes Gewächs") each year. At the tip of the range, once again, is a breathtaking masterpiece from the Hölle vineyard site that has such length and depth that even a whole panel of experienced tasters and lovers of great dry Riesling is left speechless. If any proof was needed, this vintage shows that Gunter Künstler is back in the small group of world-class producers in Germany.

Weingut Keller, Rheinhessen
A vintage that proved difficult even for many top-ranked producers, yet Klaus and Klaus Peter Keller have once again produced fantastic dry Riesling wines that are among the best that has ever been produced in this form. It is difficult to imagine more presence, depth and complexity than the G-Max combines, but the magnificent Hubacker as well as the other Grand Crus (Große Gewächse) are almost equally breathtaking. Among our favourite wines of the vintage ist he full-bodied and yet extremely refreshing Silvaner "S". Although 2004 was not a particularly great vintage for top-quality botrytis wines, these too were once again impressive. The third “Range of the Year” in succession, but we really did not have much of a choice. Perhaps one can find a few producers in the region that are equally good, but certainly not a single one that is better.

Weingut Ernst Dautel, Württemberg
Dautel has once again in 2004 produced a range without any weaknesses. Quite the contrary: hardly anybody in the region has mastered the challenges of the vintage as well as he has. The white Pinot varieties in particular are excellent, but the Rieling wines, too, show class. Dautel produced the “Range of the Year” for Württemberg in 2002, and the current range is even better in our opinion. Compliments!.

The following awards were presented on 19. March 2005:

Rotweingut Jean Stodden, Ahr
The wines produced by Gerhard and Alexander Stodden in the 2002 vintage show impressively that their upgrading last year was definitely not premature. Very rarely have they produced such a complete range at a uniformly high level. Even the white wines, which on occasion have been subject to some light critical murmurings, are by now above all criticism. The top-ranked red wines can compete internationally at the highest level, and this year they stand out above their competitors in the Ahr region – though by a short head.

Weingut Sankt-Urbans-Hof, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer
The 2003 vintage has finally given Nik Weis the opportunity to lay claim to a place among the absolute top producers in Germany. The Riesling wines are incredibly deep, extract-rich and complex, and are among the best that can be made from this variety. In spite of their concentration and masses of enchantingly pure fruit, the wines have such a refreshing balance and interplay of mineral notes and acidity that spitting the wines at the tasting became a sheer test of will. A dream range, certainly the best in the career of Nik Weis and cellar master Rudolf Hoffmann.

Weingut Ratzenberger, Mittelrhein
The Ratzenberger family has presented an excellent vintage. It has been some time since the Riesling wines here have been at such a uniformly high quality right across the board. Obviously, Jochen Ratzenberger was better able to cope with the challenges of the vintage than many of his colleagues, his wines of the 2003 vintage show an elegance, sometimes even breeding and raciness that is rare fort he vintage.

Weingut Dr. Crusius, Nahe
The 2003 vintage wines presented by Hans and Peter Crusius are so overwhelming that one can almost certainly speak of the outstanding vintage in the history of the estate. They provide a unique combination of concentration and brilliance, elegance and breeding. Even the dry wines are first-class, and the fireworks presented by the sweet and botrytis wines leaves one speechless. All the Riesling wines should be given some time to mature, and some of them certainly have the potential to improve further with maturation.

Weingut Franz Künstler, Rheingau
Only very few producers have managed to present a range of such uniformly high quality in 2003. For the first time, Gunter Künstler has shown he can also produce world class botrytis dessert Riesling wines. The Trockenbeerenauslese wines from the Domdechaney and Hölle sites are without a doubt among the greatest dessert wines anywhere. They will provide lucky heirs with unforgettable tasting experiences well into the next century. As far as the dry Riesling wines are concerned, Künstler has once more achieved the level of the best vintages of the Eighties. The flagship wine, once again, is the outstanding dry Auslese from the Hölle vineyard (gold capsule), but even the more basic quality wines and Kabinett wines set high standards. Very close to being a perfect collection, such as is rarely found anywhere in the world at this level of quality.

Weingut Keller, Rheinhessen
It is hard to imagine an even more complete range than the one presented by Klaus and Klaus-Peter Keller this year. The basic wines, which are produced in large quantities, are crystal-clear and refreshing, the Pinots are really excellent, and the Silvaner "S" combines an exceptionally full body with superb balance, and will probably still improve with some maturation. However, all this pales next to the top wines, be they dry or botrytis dessert wines. There has never been a comparable range of Grand Cru (Großes Gewächs) wines. The Riesling wines are just bursting with power, yet they retain a vibrant, almost filigree raciness and breeding that almost takes your breath away when tasting. Such monumental wines that are at the same time almost as light as a feather, virtually dancing across your tongue and on your palate, are few and far between in the world. The same can be said of the fantastic sweet botrytis masterpieces: this absolute, biliiantly sparkling purity combined with extreme concentration can almost drive you crazy. There is no doubt: this is as good as it gets.

Weingut Knipser, Pfalz
The vintage was particularly difficult in the more southerly regions, but it has allowed the Knipser brothers to present a range of white wines that stands head and shoulders above the already excellent efforts of recent years. No matter which grape variety, which level of sweetness or which predicate you choose to examine: everything here is simply first-class. And the Grand Cru (Großes Gewächs) "Steinbuckel" is a real masterpiece, that has assured the Knipsers of a place in the first row of producers of outstanding dry Riesling wines.

Weingut Dr. Heger, Baden
There is no doubt that the 2003 vintage was not an easy one in Baden. It is all the more surprising to see how well Joachim Heger has coped with the conditions. Even his most full-bodied wines are neither heavy nor clumsy, rather they create excitement with their crystal-clear fruit and a playful balance one would not have expected to find in the Kaiserstuhl region in this vintage. The outstanding wines this year are the Chardonnay from the Winklerberg site, as well as the three-star Pinot Blanc from Achkarren. The latter wine may well be the best wine made from this variety in the 2003 vintage.

Weingut Jürgen Ellwanger, Württemberg
The range of 2003 vintage white wines clearly demonstrates the ambitions of the family to be counted among the leading producers in Württemberg in this category as well. The botrytis dessert wines in particular are better than ever, and the dry wines are also of a very high standard. You should also definitely try the outstanding Trollinger wines. One rarely sees wines of this quality made from this variety.

Weingut Rudolf Fürst, Franken
For the third year in a row, the award for the Range of the Year goes to Paul Fürst. This is not a sign that there are no alternatives available in Franken in terms of quality, it simply shows the exceptional class and ability of this winemaker. There are very few others in Germany who can handle the use of small oak barrels as well as he can. Be it red or white wines: Paul Fürst regularly produces first-class wines in both categories. The same can be said of his Riesling and Traminer wines matured in stainless steel tanks, which have little competition in Franken in terms of their elegance and breeding. Even experiments such as a blanc de noir Pinot Noir matured in barrique are eminently successful. His red wines have been shining examples in Germany for the past 15 years.

The following awards were presented on 13. March 2004:

Bernhard Breuer, Rheingau
Actually, we could simply award this prize to Bernhard Breuer every year, as he has without a doubt been the most reliable producer in the Rheingau region in recent years. He and his cellar master Hermann Schmoranz have set the standard not only for Riesling. His Pinot Noirs, too, are first-rate, and, while Pinot Gris is not really a standard variety in the Rheingau, he produces the most impressive examples of this variety in Germany.

Weingut Karl Haidle, Württemberg
Even now, producers of really characterful wines in Württemberg are few and far between. Karl Haidle is one of the rare exceptions. His wines have been among the best in the region since the 1990’s, and in particular the red wines have caused excitement time and again. The 2002 vintage of the Riesling wines produced on the gypsum keuper soils of the Stettener Pulvermächer site reflect the terroir perfectly, and show he has moved up into the group of top producers in Germany.

Weingut Keller, Rheinhessen
Father Klaus Keller was one of the pioneers of quality wine production in the Wonnegau district. Ever since the son has joined his parents’ business, the dry wines, in particular, and there are now few wine estates in Germany that are a match for the Kellers. Beautiful dessert wines, a lovely Pinot Noir, one of the best Silvaner wines we have ever seen and a tremendous range of world-class dry Riesling wines are the corner posts of this range, which certainly deserves the accolades as Range of the Year.

Koehler-Ruprecht, Pfalz
He is an absolute traditionalist, and produces Riesling wines that always require a lot of time to show their quality. Even then, the uncompromising style, their sometimes extreme mineral notes and their character, which owes much more to the soil than to fruit, are not to everybody’s liking. As is the case with the white and red wines matured in barrique – including some of the best Pinot Noirs in Germany - Bernd Philippi and his Riesling wines look more to France for orientation than to the local traditions. As a result, many of the wines are only released on to the market a few years later than usual. The 2002 vintage was outstanding across the board, and the even more impressive Pinot Noir and Riesling reserve wines of the 2001 vintage ensure this is a worthy Range of the Year.

Weingut Rudolf Fürst, Franken
Paul Fürst is a master of barrique maturation. There are few wine producers in Germany who are as sensitive in using the small oak barrels. He produces some of the very best Pinot Noir wines in Germany. In addition, Pinot Blanc, Gewürztraminer and even a blanc de noir Pinot Noir are improved in oak, and yet retain their very special terroir character, defined by the shell limestone and coloured sandstone soils. The extremely elegant and at the same time expressive Riesling wines, which were not to be bettered anywhere in Franken in 2002, are another speciality of the estate.

Emrich-Schönleber, Nahe
Only very few wine producers in the world can produce wines with such a perfect, enchanting mixture of brilliant, absolutely pure fruit, gripping mineral structure with breeding, complexity and such playful, dancing elegance combined with body. Werner Schönleber’s Riesling wines set the standard in the dry, off-dry, sweet and botrytis categories. Add to this the white Pinot varieties, which also provide a level of quality rarely seen in Germany. The 2002 vintage range stands on its own, not only in a German context.

Matthias Müller, Mittelrhein
The Bopparder Hamm vineyard site is certainly one of the most impressive in Germany. Anybody who has seen this huge amphitheatre in real life can only be surprised that not many more outstanding wines are produced here. Unfortunately there are very few estates that have learned to utilise the potential of this unique, steeply sloping site. Matthias Müller not only sticks out head and shoulders from the mass of producers in the Boppard region, his current vintage proves, if proof were needed, that he deserves a place among the very best wine estates in Germany.

Deutzerhof, Ahr
There was a time when the Ahr region was one of the most famous wine-growing regions in Germany, and the wines achieved prices that were often far in excess of those achieved by famous French estates. All that changed after the Second World War. The red wines became lighter in colour, sweeter – and more banal. It was only in the late Eighties that a number of newcomers to the industry settled here and started producing red wines of real statute, and again changed the picture. Wolfgang Hehle was one of these pioneers. He had trained as a tax consultant, and completely revamped the estate of his parents-in-law, expanding the property to include parcels of the best vineyard sites in the region, and set off with the objective of producing the best wines in the region. The 2002 vintage shows that he has achieved this objective. Simply, one wine is better than the next, and even the white wines, which are always a little neglected in the Ahr region, show a standard not hitherto seen.

Bernhard Huber, Baden
The Kaiserstuhl mountain is right there in front of him, but the vineyard sites in the Breisgau district on which Bernhard Huber grows his vines are much less famous than those of the ancient Kaiserstuhl volcano just a few kilometres away. That certainly does not stop him from making white Pinots as well as Pinot Noir that might be equalled in the neighbouring commune, but are rarely exceeded by these. The influence of France, just a few kilometres away, are clearly evident in the style, and his Pinot Noirs, in particular, are often mistaken for first-class real Burgundy wines in blind tastings. Even the basic wines are almost always of excellent quality, but his white and red reserve wines, including the Malterer, a blend of Pinot Blanc and the almost forgotten variety Freisamer, have very little competition in Germany.

Weingut Van Volxem, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer
Normally when somebody invests in a run-down wine estate, the first thing to be improved is the cellar. Here the opposite is the case. You will seek modern technology in the cellar in vain, as most of the money has been invested in the vineyards. Today, the estate owns 13 hectares of vineyard, some of them in the very best sites on the Saar river. The very first vintage produced by the new owner and his cellar master caused quite a stir, and the quality has been improved in every vintage since then The 2002 vintage has shown such uniformly good quality at the highest level as I have rarely seen in the Saar district. The wines are not only among the best, but they also show the most individuality and character in the region. At the same time, they are not austere or difficult to understand, in spite of their great potential they provide exceptional drinking pleasure even when young.

The following were honoured in February 2003:

Weingut Meyer-Näkel, Ahr
In 2001, Werner Näkel has once again presented the most complex and most expressive Pinot Noir and Pinot Madeleine wines produced in the region. Even though the alcohol levels, as is the case all over the Ahr region, are at the upper limit of what is still acceptable, there are few red wines in the country that are more impressive.

Weingut Hermann Ockenfels, Mittelrhein
The estate attracted attention in 1999 with a range that was well above average for the vintage in the Mittelrhein region. The following year, which was extremely difficult all round, saw a minor setback. The current vintage, which shows a range of wines with excellent structure and quite full body documents a tremendous improvement, and presents a real challenge to the long-established producers from the supposedly more privileged communes in the southern section of the Mittelrhein region.

Weingut Hermann Dönnhoff, Nahe
Even Helmut Dönnhoff rarely manages to put together such a perfect range as he has done this year. The dry Riesling wines as well as the white Pinot wines are quite likely the best ever produced here. In addition, the sweet Spätlese and Auslese wines are also of exceptional quality. At the same time, many of them will only show their full potential in a few years time, and some of them will probably be rated even higher then.

Weingut Markus Molitor, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer
If you page through Molitor’s price list for 2001, you can be forgiven for losing direction. This does not seem to be a problem for Markus Molitor in his cellar: one wine of the huge range is simply better than the next. Molitor manages to produce wines that are absolutely world class in every possible category, from dry Riesling to sweet Spätlese and Auslese wines to the botrytis dessert wines. Even the dry Riesling Auslese matured in barrique – heresy for many purists – sets new standards. In a few years time, this will be one of the greatest white wines ever produced in Germany.

Weingut August Kesseler, Rheingau
Kesseler appears to be currently almost the only VDP member in the Rheingau region seriously and uncompromisingly working to maintain and improve his quality, without letting himself be sidetracked by marketing considerations, The First Growth, or Erstes Gewächs, which is currently being degraded to a simple marketing gag in the Rheingau region generally, really is first class, and perhaps the only such wine really deserving of the name. In addition, the dry Riesling Spätlese wines are also excellent, and when it comes to the sweet and botrytis dessert wines there are few in the region who can match Kesseler’s quality.

Weingut Bergdolt - St. Lamprecht, Pfalz
The standard that has been achieved here in recent years is nothing short of amazing. Be it Riesling, white Pinot varieties or Pinot Noir: the Bergdolt brothers are masters of them all, and produce first-class wines from all the varieties. The range presented in 2001 is extremely homogenous, and we felt it was more exciting than anything else we have seen in the Pfalz region.

Weingut Andreas Laible, Baden
The 2001 vintage has given Andreas Laible the opportunity, finally, to show he ist he most versatile white wine producer in Baden, not only is he a master of a wide range of grape varieties, he is also in control of widely different style, from dry to botrytis dessert wines, from reductive wines matured in stainless steel tanks to those matured in new barriques. At the tip of his top-quality and particularly homogenous range are two breathtaking Riesling wines that are unique for the region.

Weingut Ernst Dautel, Württemberg
Nobody else in Württemberg at the same time produces both red and white wines of such a high standard. No matter whether new oak is involved or not: Dautel’s wines enthused us with very pure fruit, structure and perfect balance. Even the bottle-fermented sparkling wine is excellent.

Weingut Rudolf Fürst, Franken
The master of barrique maturation impressed us with outstanding white Pinot varieties of the 2001 vintage matured in new oak, as well as with a range of Pinot Noirs of the 2000 vintage that are almost without equal in the country. Nobody else in Germany is able to, with such regularity, craft such crystal-clear Pinot Fruit that manages to completely subordinate the oak. The Riesling of the 2001 vintage, too, is clear proof that Fürst has his place among the top producers in Germany.

Weingut Wittmann, Rheinhessen
Ever since Philipp Wittmann has taken over the reins in the cellar, leaving his father Günter to concentrate exclusively on the vineyards, this estate has developed to being one of the absolutely best wine estates in Germany. The 2001 vintage is a clear example of this development: even the basic wines have real character, and the Grand Crus (Große Gewächse) are among the most impressive dry Riesling wines to be found anywhere.

The following were honoured in February 2002:

Weingut Jean Stodden, Ahr

Weingut Heymann-Löwenstein, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer

Weingut Hermann Dönnhoff, Nahe

Weingut Georg Breuer, Rheingau

Weingut Horst Sauer, Franken

Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz, Pfalz

Weingut Dr. Heger, Baden

Weingut Wittmann, Rheinhessen

Where a wine-growing region is not stated, we were unable to find a range that was so convincing as to cause us to award the prize.

The award „Range of the Year“ refers to the range presented in the year prior to the award. It is thus not necessarily restricted to the very latest available vintage. The prerequisite for the award is that the range is, in my opinion, the best range in a particular wine-growing region. For this reason, the award may be made repeatedly in succession to the same estate. Should two estates have presented ranges of equal quality, the decision on the winner will be taken with a view to the completeness of the ranges. If no differentiation is possible on this basis, preference will be given to an estate that has not previously won the award. If this criterion fails as well, the award will be made to both producers." 

Marcus Hofschuster