The estate is located in the town of Ihringen (Kaiserstuhl area) in the Baden wine-growing region in Germany. It was founded in 1935 by Dr. Max Heger, who ran it part-time, and had a medical practice by day. In the 1960’s, his son Wolfgang Heger took the estate right up to the top of the best wine estates in Germany. The grandson of the founder, Joachim Heger and his wife Silvia, took over the business in 1992. The vineyard area totals 15 hectares, with holdings in the Schlossberg (Achkarren) and Winklerberg (Ihringen) sites. Grape varieties planted are Riesling (20%), Pinot Noir (20%), Pinot Gris (19%), Pinot Blanc (14%), Silvaner (11%), Chardonnay, Muskateller, Auxerrois, Scheurebe, Gewürztraminer, Kerner and Cabernet Sauvignon. The red wines are fermented on the skins for 10 to 25 days. They are then matured in barrique for 12 to 18 months. The white wines, too, are matured in barrique. To meet the great demand, Joachim Heger founded a small merchant house in 1996, with 16 contract growers supplying the grapes. The grape varieties planted are similar to the list above, plus additionally Müller-Thurgau and Muskat-Ottonel are included. These wines are marketed under the „Weinhaus Joachim Heger“ label. The estate is a member of the VDP (Verband deutscher Prädikats- und Qualitäts-Weingüter) as well as of the Deutsches Barrique-Forum associations.
The vintage 2007
Baden: Ihringen
Winklerberg, Riesling, White wine, late harvest (Spaetlese), dry, 16.50 €
In this vintage, Joachim Heger, with the exception of a single, rather simple Muskateller, has produced an exceptionally homogenous range of wines. Although it seems that the top-quality wines do not quite achieve the quality seen in the very best vintages, one can certainly say that practically all the wines are high-class, and many of them promise a good maturation potential.
Baden: Achkarren
Schlossberg, Grauburgunder, White wine, late harvest (Spaetlese), dry, ***, 20.60 €
The site-specific Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc wines of the 2004 vintage are once again excellent. They all have a firm structure, and all show a full body, as well as finesse and an elegant acid bite. Most of them still need a few more months to show off their true quality, and counter to the trend for the vintage, most of them look set to remain enjoyable for a number of years. However, it is not only the top-ranked wines that impress. The Silvaner are really good, and the Pinot Blanc as well as the wonderful Muskat-Ottonel from the Oktav range show real class. However, in the case of the red wines, we would have preferred to see a little less oak used, and believe this would have improved the quality of the wines.
There can be no doubt that 2003 was a difficult vintage in Baden. It is all the more surprising to see how well Joachim Heger has coped with the conditions. Even his biggest wines do not appear heavy or clumsy, they demonstrate crystal-clear fruit and a lively balance one would not have expected from Kaiserstuhl wines in this vintage. The outstanding wines this time around are the Chardonnay from the Winklerberg site and the three-star Pinot Blanc from Achkarren. The latter wine could well prove to be the best wine made from this variety in 2003. Our compliments to the winemaker – and that includes good wishes for his well-earned fourth star.
This year, the quality of the wines produced by Joachim Heger is a little variable. However, with the exception of the Pinot Blanc without a specific site designation, all the white Pinot varieties presented this year once again did not fail to impress. The Pinot Noirs, too, are good, although, and this is especially true of the Mimus, they lack a little concentration, which can be ascribed to the vintage.
Baden: Achkarren
Schlossberg, Grauburgunder, White wine, late harvest (Spaetlese), dry, ***, 19.70 €
In this vintage, Joachim Heger has presented a high-class range of firmly structured, powerful white wines with excellent, clean fruit. The quality is even more consistent, on a very high level, than in the previous two vintages. In particular the three-star versions of the white Burgundian varieties should see an excellent development. The second-label wines of the grower's group have maintained their solid level.
Baden
Grauburgunder, White wine, Kabinett, dry, Weinhaus Heger, 7.80 €
Joachim Heger has spared no effort to present an excellent range from the 2000 vintage. The result of these efforts is a collection of wines not seen anywhere else in Baden. The Burgundian varieties in particular are exciting with their pure, juicy fruit and firm structure. All of these wines have the potential to improve further in the next few months. The Muskateller is also excellent, and will only reach its peak form next year. Naturally, the wines of the grower's group are not on the same level as the estate wines, but they are competently made and pleasant to drink. A huge compliment to Joachim Heger!
Baden
Grauburgunder, White wine, Kabinett, dry, Weinhaus Heger, 7.67 €
Even for an expert like Joachim Heger, the 1999 vintage was quite a difficult one. This is particularly noticeable in the more basic wines, which are, of course, all well made, but which could preferably show a bit more concentration and character. It is a moot point to argue about whether the wines of the Winklerberg are better than those produced from the Achkarrer Schlossberg. At this stage, the wines from both sites are still closed up, and almost monolithic. Most of them will only reveal their potential in 2002, and could then possibly be rated a point or two higher.
One of Joachim Heger's stated objectives is to produce first-class Riesling on the Winklerberg, wines that can equal those of Durbach. His three-star Spätlese indicates that this objective is achievable in the near future.
In the past, the red wines were only rarely able to present a level of quality comparable to that of the whites. This partial weakness appears to be a thing of the past, if the 1999 vintage is anything to go by. Both the Mimus and the three-star Spätburgunder (PN) have seen quite a lot of wood, but also have a firm structure and juicy fruit that is most convincing to this critic.
Baden
Spätburgunder, Red wine, QbA, dry, *** Weinhaus Heger, 14.57 €
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