Hessische Bergstrasse

The growing region known as the Hessische Bergstrasse was only established as an independently recognised growing region in 1971. At that time, extensive restructuring measures were introduced within the framework of the new wine laws. As a result, Baden claimed that section of the Bergstrasse („mountain road") located within Baden for itself, and incorporated it in the general region of Baden. At the same time, the neighbouring Rheingau, located in the federal state of Hessen, did not want to be associated with the northern section of the Bergstrasse, located in Hessen, so that a new region was created, which at the time was the smallest German wine-growing region.
Most of the vineyards of this region are located on the western border of the Odenwald forest, between Zwingenberg and Heppenheim. Here, the vines benefit from a warm current of air that blows up the Rhine plain, which means that spring comes to this region somewhat earlier than one would expect at this latitude. Approximately 20 kilometres to the north-east, near the Main river, is a separate "island" of vineyards near the town of Gross-Umstadt. This, however, does not benefit as strongly from the climatic conditions. The most important grape variety in the Hessische Bergstrasse is the Riesling. The mild climate ensures that first-class examples of all the possible styles, from dry to noble sweet, can be produced here. Generally speaking, the style is not that dissimilar to that of the Rheingau, although there is less steely acidity, making the wines more supple, and more approachable at an early stage. At the same time, the best wines from the region have considerable maturation potential. Wines made from Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris grapes are becoming increasingly popular with consumers and producers alike. The deep loess soil structures found on the lower slopes are better suited to the Burgundian varieties than to Riesling, and new vineyards are continuously being planted with these varieties.
By far the leading producer in the Hessische Bergstrasse region is the Staatdomäne in Bensheim. This estate was run for three generations by the Hillenbrand family. This era ended recently with the departure of Heinrich Hillenbrand, but it appears that his successor Volker Hörr will be able to retain the estate's high level of quality. In a different class, but certainly also good are the estate of Simon-Bürkle, which was established as recently as 1991, and the Weingut der Stadt BensheimWinzergenossenschaft#157#, too, by far the largest owner of vineyards in the region, has regularly been successful particularly with its sweet (botrytis) dessert wines.

(translation by Peter Gebler)