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German| Date: 2005-07-09 14:42:21 |
| From: Gerhard Präsent |
Subject: Cote-Rotie JAMET tasting |
| Hello wine-friends, A report about my Cote-Rotie/Jamet vertical on Sat. 25 June in Graz. The main topic of this tasting was Domaine JAMET´s Côte-Rôtie, with 13 wines 1988-2001 including 12 vintages of the rare "Côte brune"-bottling (0,4 ha/1 acre - usually 2000 bottles only). I decided to pair each Jamet-wine with another reknowned Cote-Rotie-producer and cuvée, most of the times from the same vintage. So we had all 3 Guigal La-La´s plus Château d´Ampuis, Rostaing´s Côte-blonde and La Landonne, Chapoutier´s La Mordorée, Gerin´s Les Grandes Places, Gallet (Cote blonde) and Ogier´s Belle Helene and regular CR. Those few fine producers missing would have been alternatives here and there, but IMHO seldom really better than what was actually in our glasses. Here are my personal (short) notes: 1st flight: 1. medium red, very red-berried, noticable acidity and tannic bite, almost sauvage, 91points 2. darker than No.1, softer, more developed and balanced, lush and long, 92p 3. full deep colour, quite voluptous in nose and on palate, tannic bite, not quite ready, powerful, 92+p 4. quite bright ruby, but deep nose of red and dark fruits and spices, a bit buttery from malo, but excellent persistance and finish, youthful, 93p 2nd flight: 5. dark cherry red, very elegant nose, hints of new wood, nicely balanced, quite complex, slightly watery on the palate, but satisfying, 89p 6. full medium deep colour with orange rim, very open complex nose, quite soft on the palate, but sweet and long, tiny bitterness, mouthfilling, 93p 7. medium red, quite soft, mature, nice drink, but a bit light, 86p 8. full colour with bright rim, perfect mature nose, same on palate, soft butintense and long, great pleasure to drink, 92p 3rd flight: 9. very dark colour, refined modern style, toasty oak noticable but balanced, soft and persistent on palate, nice mocca touch, a bit primary but agreable, 93p 10. very deep ruby colour, intense meaty spicy nose,excellent grip, slightly rustic touch, powerful and youthful, great potential, 95p 11. medium deep colour, quite elegant and silky first, quite intense, got a bit chunky with air, slightly bitter and stalky, not sure about potential, 90-91?p 12. not too dark, but very deep saturated colour, great elegant nose, red and dark fruits, cream coffee, roasted meat, even yet great harmony and length, almost never-ending, great wine, 99p * * * The wines were: 1. JAMET "Côte brune" 2000 2. GUIGAL "Château d´Ampuis" 1995 3. JAMET "Côte brune" 1995 4. JAMET "Côte brune" 2001 5. CHAPOUTIER "La Mordorée" 1996 6. GUIGAL "La Turque" 1992 7. JAMET "Côte brune" 1996 8. JAMET "Côte brune" 1992 9. GERIN "Les Grandes Places" 1998 10. JAMET "Côte brune" 1999 11. JAMET "Côte brune" 1998 12. ROSTAING "Côte blonde" 1999 * * * 4th flight: 13. medium dark ruby, fine nose, nice grip on palate, intense 92p 14. full deep colour, very sweet fruit, lush and mouthfilling, outstanding complexity and balance, textbook elegancy, 96p 15. very dark black-ruby, intense nose of black fruits, smokey wood, minerality and olives, still tannic and very intense, 95+p 16. medium red with slightly orange rim, soft "warm" nose, velvet but with grip on the palate, perfect structure, very stylish, 93p 5th flight: 17. quite bright with orange shades, first a bit dust in the nose that blew off, sweet fruit with black olives, very typical, totally mature, a bit soft, 90p 18. intense ruby with only light brightening, very powerful, almost heavy palate-impact, still tannic, very intense, but on the rustic side, needs time, a wine hard to read, 91+?points 19. dark black-ruby, dark fruits and olives, soft meatyness with with fine grip, great Syrah-style, 94p 20. a shade brighter than No19, more red fruits, nice positive horse stable stink, very intense but balanced, rustic touch but also with elegance, still youthful, 95p 6th flight: 21. nice, dark colour, but heavily corked (a pity, this can be an outstanding wine in the 93-94 point range). 22. medium cherry-red, bright rim, strong nose of cherries, herbs, game leather, a bit rum-pot, but not heavy on the palate, noticable acidity, complex and exotic, powerful but not quite round, I´m not sure if it will still improve, 92p 23. quite dark ruby, forthcoming bouquet of dark and red fruits, game, spices, mushrooms, not a trace of new wood, beautifully balanced, perfect texture, great mature Cote-Rotie, 95p 24. medium red, still with hints of black, dense animalic nose, earthy, remains of tannic structure, excellent grip, very long and intense masculine finish, 93p The wines were: 13. JAMET "Côte brune" 1994 14. GUIGAL "La Mouline" 1994 15. OGIER "Belle Helene" 1997 16. JAMET "Côte brune" 1997 17. OGIER "Côte-Rotie" (regular) 1991 18. JAMET "Côte brune" 1989 19. ROSTAING "La Landonne" 1991 20. JAMET "Cote brune" 1991 21. GALLET "Côte blonde" 1990 (corked) 22. JAMET "Côte-Rotie" (regular) 1988 23. GUIGAL "La Landonne" 1987 24. JAMET "Côte brune" 1990 (dessert wines brought by some participants): R.&.C.Schneider-Baden-Würthemberg/D"Weissburgunder" (Pinot blanc) Barrique 2004: Very good, only slightly sweet Gunderloch-Rheinhessen/D Riesling Auslese 1992 "lieblich" mouthfeel, can´t remember more Malat-Kamptal/A Riesling "Der Beste" (The Best) 1997 Nice, "lieblich" taste, lacking only a bit style Chapoutier Banyuls/F 2001 (0,5 l) Very intense, alcoholic and primary, too early, but promising Resume: Although almost all of the best producers with their best cuvées were present, Jamet´s Côte-brune performed impressively, with only the 1996 a bit weak, and the 1998 slightly underachieving. I´m not sure if the 1989 CB was a representative bottle at it´s best. The "Wine of the Night" was Rostaing´s 1999 CBl, but Jamet´s CBr 1999, 1991, 1990, 1992 (!) and 1997 (!), perhaps 1995, together with Guigal´s La La´s, Ogier´s BH, Rostaing´s LL and Gerin´s LGP were not far behind. No real disappointment at all, but an important and interesting overview of the appellation and it´s best producers. WE should not forget to mention the fine cuisine of Günther Pabst in the restaurant "IM FÜNFTEN" (On the fifth floor)/Graz that accompanied the tasting perfectly. Best regards Gerhard More infos: www.wein-plus.com Unsubscribe: www.wein-plus.com/abmelden.htm |
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